October 19, 2024
Ostuni - gorgeous city on a hill
Today was the day of the "orange weather warning". They forecast rain pretty much each hour of the day plus strong winds at times.
We were not even considering riding really, then having breakfast, we look outside. Hmmm, not raining yet...oh what the heck, we have ridden in rain before. So we put our rain gear in our panniers (ok, in my panniers) and off we went. We decided to ride as fast as possible, and skip lunch. We had a later start as we assumed it was a train day. Instead, a training day!
Traffic was so much lighter than yesterday, then we realized that it was Saturday. And yes, there is a strong wind, but it is a tail wind. Whoop whoop! We started out riding along the ocean, on a good road with little traffic and wind in our sails.
You would occasionally see these watch towers, always on a promontory. You can also see the plane taking off from Bari I suspect.
After a dozen km, we turn away from the sea and head slightly inland. We came across a few fields where crops are starting to show. Here, some kind of melon is looking almost ready.
We turn the corner in the road and witness another sea - this one of goats. Look closely and you can see the dogs there too - exactly the same colour. This fellow was in no hurry to move off the road, and we were wondering how in the heck we would get past.
Then I hear Marjory exclaim "you have got to be kidding me", and notice a giant lorry heading up the road behind us. Then, we realize that after we let him pass....The driver was waving at me and laughing at our predicament. He made the motion to follow him and the white sea was parted.
Another dozen miles along and we turn inland and start gaining elevation. We enter the land of ancient olive trees. They claim that some of these are 2,000 years old. A few years ago, the Italian government did a census of olive trees that were at least 100 yr old, and passed a law that you cannot cut any of them down without permission.
Often when they get very old, they start to divide into two trees. We saw many examples of this, as in the photo below. Does that divide its age by 2 as well?
This area is famous for its olives, so I am sure we will have some in Ostuni. The wealthy estates were very impressive, with long stone walls and driveways, but usually mostly hidden from view.
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We even saw a few trullis as in this example of a newly built house with a trullo roof. I have to ask though, why do they use these? Is it:
a) because they are actually practical? Cool in summer and warm in winter?
b) because they are proud of the trulli heritage of the area?
c) because they are actually ancient trullis (not the new ones!)
d) because they know tourists like them?
It still hadn't rained, and were now only about 15 km from Ostuni, riding fast with the wind often behind us. Time for a water break!
As we approach the city, the wealthy estates look even more opulent.
This is one of the estates with the city in the distance. I would imagine even the land is very expensive here. This particular place had a large swimming pool (not in pic).
We turn a corner and there is the city - of course its on a hill. We started climbing, and the rain started spattering very lightly.
We got to within 150 m of our hotel and Marjory spots a "senza glutein pizzeria" (gluten-free pizzeria). We have learned a few very important Italian words. To eat lunch now was a good decision as the rain started in earnest, and we were under an awning.
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After lunch, the rain was pouring down in buckets. We road up a steep hill on the slippery white limestone road, and right into our hotel. The lady opens the door and says "bikes inside" and shoos us in. She points us to where the bikes stay - in their own wine cave of course!
Now it is time to dry out. We made it on a day we didn't think we would get a chance to ride. We'll explore Ostuni tomorrow and then begin the ride down to the coastal towns of Monopoli and Polignano, our last day of riding (maybe?).
Today's ride: 44 km (27 miles)
Total: 497 km (309 miles)
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