October 14, 2024
Bottom of the Boot
Santa Maria di Leuca
As we left Gallipoli this morning, we were seeking a bicycle repair shop. There has been a gear shifting issue with my chainring for some days now, but we never seem to be in a town with a repair shop when they are open. I basically am using only the middle chainring, so hills are a little tougher than they need to be. We thought maybe in Gallipoli, but Sunday they were closed. Today, we thought we would try on the way out of town. After finding the shop, they were too busy to help - only one repair man and he was working on a motorcycle. Our issue with communication didn't help as he kept saying "no parts" - when all I need is an adjustment.
So we gave up on that, and started heading toward the right direction, parallel to where we actually wanted to be. A couple of wrong turns, a railroad coming between us and our goal, a short stint on the highway, and we're back on the route. It shortly turned onto a beachside trail that was just next to the sand dunes.
After an hour or so, we started searching for a cafe. We passed plenty of places, but none open...and then, the perfect place (called Sunset Cafe) right on the beach with great views of the water.
And in the other direction...
There were several places where you just had to stop and drink it in.
The road finally veered away from the water, and we climbed a bit to some highlands. Very dry, and lonely - a car every 5 minutes or so.
Then it is back down to the water, and notice lots of people using the rocky beach to go swimming, fishing, and just soaking up the sun.
At one point, we found a beachside trail that looped around and was loads of fun. Much better than just zipping along the highway.
And then it turned into just hard packed gravel, but still fun. It went on for several km's.
We are thinking lunch but again, have not seen anything open. We said okay, even a supermarket lunch, but although lots of signs - all closed for the season. I zip past this large building and hear Marjory behind me ringing her bell - our signal for "stop!". I come back and we see this beach club....
...and next to it, a busy restaurant. Excellent!
Everyone was dressed up and many were on a "big date". I guess we were too, although we didn't quite fit in!
Back on the road again, now those with hiking experience know about "false summits". Well here there were "false promontories", which we kept thinking was the final "Land's End" of Leuca.
However, the final approach to Leuca had the perfect "Belvedere"...
And when we arrive, we find a swimming pool. Now that makes it a great day. And you bet I went in!
Tomorrow we start heading up the other side of the Puglia peninsula and the Adriatic Sea with Albania across the water. And tomorrow night, Otranto.
Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 327 km (203 miles)
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