With heavy luggage I don't like changing trains, but the layovers do give you a chance to move a bit. I was amazed at how quickly my preferred choice back to Bologna sold out and we ended up taking an Intercity, six and a half hours without a break. Oof.

Had one last nice, simple meal at a bottega a couple of blocks from our accommodation. People watching, as always, was entertaining with a large group of regulars coming inside to get a glass of wine, then going back out to socialize and smoke. 

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Arriving back at SeaTac exhausted after too much time in the air and in airports, we hustled to the luggage carousel, hooping to get quickly through customs. I have no doubt the people around me were aware of how pissed I was to see my bike box held closed only by the TSA lock. I've yet to open it to assess any damage, in particular to the wheels, as I don't really have the space to do so until I get home.

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Then to add insult to injury, the beagle was excited to detect something in my carry on bag. Crap, a now very brown banana that I'd forgotten was in my bag. Officer writes up some piece of paper and sticks it in my passport, then another officer tells us to follow him. We get passed off to a third officer who takes us to a desk where I surrender my banana to a fourth officer, and we are then told to wait at what I'll call the Group W bench (but this isn't a story about Alice). after a couple of minutes a fifth officer who is a stand-up comedian wannabe interrogates us for a couple of minutes before telling us we can go. All of this for a banana.

I loved Puglia and the Salento in particular. Gravina had a nice feel to it, it's scenic, and accommodations are cheap compared with Matera. I'd probably use it as a base and take the local train to visit Matera and Altamura. I like Matera, it was interesting, but the private half day tour we had was enough for me. Too many crowds following the dude with the flag on a stick.

Taranto was a bit of a surprise. For a larger city with a reputation for being polluted from the giant steel mill, the island and the area on the south side of the bridge were clean, walkable, and very enjoyable. I'd go back. Had some great seafood here.

Bari was another large city we enjoyed. the old town area, that is. Wonderful food options and happening nightlife in the form of passeggiata and outdoor restaurants. The castle was an interesting walk, just wish you could get up on the ramparts. 

Otranto, Martina as a base for the trulli area, and Leuca were all nice and worth visiting. I'd like to try Monopoli when it's not overrun with tourists heading to the beach. Gallipoli should be a non-starter for most people unless you are into overpriced restaurants and shop after shop selling refrigerator magnets. There are prettier places in Salento. 

Adoro la Puglia.