May 12, 2023
Sorrento
One of the rituals of a cycle trip on Bike Fridays is stowing the Samsonite suitcases while we are off gallavanting the countryside. These are the cases that the bikes travel in, so they need a place to call home for the duration of the trip. Once the hotel or B&B tells us they can keep the suitcases for us, we make the booking. So it was with this B&B, which means we will return and stay here four weeks from now. Today was the day to hand them over as this cycle trip gets underway.
So began our pannier stuffing this morning. Cycle gear on one side and regular clothes in the other worked for me. Then all the other odds and sods like sandals, laundry bag, liquids, hydration tablets, recharging gear, cable locks and spare inner tube went in to the various pockets. Jeans and shoes are staying in Naples.
We use the feel method for balancing the load: bicep curls with a pannier in each hand. When it feels about balanced, it’s done. Oh, and as for that minimal packing, the panniers still feel heavy!
We packed the carry-on luggage into the suitcases and handed them off to Giuliana who assured us she would take care of them. Then, we made our way down to the ferry terminal, gingerly walking the bikes along the sidewalks, up and down off the curbs.
One thing we learned right away about Naples is that it will take you down in an instant if you aren't sure footed. There is nary an even surface to be found. Even the tiles in new sidewalks are lifted and uneven. It felt good to get on the saddles and ride the final 200m to the ferry slip!
Within 10 minutes of arrival, the skies opened up and it poured rain. Luckily we were under cover. We were thankful we decide to bring rain jackets on this trip. Many of the others lined up with us were from one of three cruise ships moored a short distance away and were dressed lightly for their excursion.
The ferry arrival went like this. The hydrofoil slowed somewhat as it approached the docking area, then it dropped an anchor and with the thrusters did a Kosmos Kramer to swivel around 180 degrees and back in to the dock. Dockhands roped it in place and extended the walkways so the passengers could unload. This is no BC ferry, folks.
We were thankful we were on a hydrofoil because it was a bouncy trip across the Bay of Naples. David managed to stand up and grab this shot of Vesuvius.
It was an abrupt introduction to cycling in amalfi traffic once we disembarked the ferry in Sorrento. Having been off the bikes for about 10 days, it definitely felt foreign. The first 200m was up a steep and narrow, winding cobbled lane to the main piazza. There I did a quick check on the route to Casa Carolina B&B and we were off in the thick stream of people, cars, scooters and buses. We quickly learned how to do the dance, which is to say, ‘go with the flow and do not hesitate’.
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We mosied along and when it felt like we had covered enough distance, I pulled over at a driveway and saw this sign on the stone pillar.
We checked in and were greeted by a very sweet Italian nonna. She speaks a leetle english so we did our introductions and then headed to our room to make a plan. We both wanted to ride so we unloaded the panniers and went out exploring.
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Along the way, we stopped a trattoria to make a reservation. A lovely young lady told us they do not take reservations but we could get a table if we arrived 20 minutes before the 7pm opening. When we returned, on foot this time, and found the restaurant was completely full at 6:40, we were disappointed. The only option was to stand outside and wait for a table. While we weighed our options, another three groups arrived. Then another and another and before we knew it we had secured one of the most coveted spots in town so we decided to stay and wait it out.
Soon, we had a bouncer guarding the entrance and he brought out a pitcher of red wine and a stack of cups. Just like that, we had the beginnings of a street party. Next, he brought out a huge tray of cubed parmiggiano-reggiano cheese for us. We spent the next 45 minutes chatting with a young newlywed couple from Brisbane about our and their trips.
At about 7:30 we got the invitation to be seated and a round of applause and high fives from the queue of hungry diners (the line up went all the way down the block). They seated us inside the cozy restaurant beneath a collection of parma hams and we proceeded to have one of the best meals ever. I think we will be hard pressed to try a different restaurant tomorrrow night.
Today's ride: 7 km (4 miles)
Total: 7 km (4 miles)
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