Marseille

May 31, 2019 to June 1, 2019

May 31

On our first full day in Marseille we wandered about starting in the old port and the panier district which is the oldest district in Marseille. This city has a bad reputation but we found it to be delightful and clean but we did have issues trying to eat (see below). We wanted to see the main church that is high on the hill that overlooks both Marseille and the Mediterranean so we took this tourist train. This was a good idea because it was quite a distance up to the church plus we got more of a guided tour of areas that we otherwise would not have seen. The church and the view were spectacular. As you could predict there are many references to the sea and protecting sailors inside. In the afternoon we toured Old Fort Jean that guards the entrance to the harbour. The Fort is now attached to a museum by a unique bridge. Being very jet lagged we stayed out in the sun as much as possible but did succumb to a nap in the afternoon.

Our search for dinner was entertaining. We started by arriving at a restaurant that was highly recommended for pizza to find out the only type they served was cheese and anchovy, so that was a non-starter. We also arrived at 7PM when it opened only to be given the Gallic shrug and told that they wouldn’t be served until 7:30 or 7:45 anyway. So between these 2 episodes we left. Our second attempt wasn’t much better. We started at a crêpe place only to be told they only serve them until 4PM and all we could get now were appetizers and drinks. So we had a drink and tried the ”Panisse de Marseille” a local speciality of deep fried chick peas that look like large hash browns. They actually were quite tasty. Next we tried a pizza restaurant next to our drink location again to be told it would be a 30 min wait and given the cold shoulder in the process so we gave up and picked up a take out pizza near our hotel and ate it in the room. I must say that I have not been brushed off this much in France for a long time and I have my theories about why this behaviour towards us so maybe it is time to speak more of my bad French rather than English with a North American accent.

Notre Dame de la Gard cathedral up on the hill as viewed across the old port of Marseille.

The islands outside the port including the famous Chateau d’If.

A view of Marseille from on the hill of Notre Dame.

The Virgin Mary and the kid as translated on our train ride.

A view of the church from the train as we climb the hill.

There are a variety of ships hanging from the ceiling in the church.

Our restaurant among many in the square near the old port.

Napoleon’s home across the harbour from the Fort.

The exterior of the museum that is attached to the Fort.

A view of Napoleon’s house through the walls of the museum.

The Arc Jules Guesde a war memorial built between 1825-1839. Many of the images depict Napoleon and his adventures.

The famous pizza restaurant where we do not eat. When we went by later about 8PM the place was packed so some people must like anchovy and cheese pizza.

June 1

Today we took a ferry to the island where the famous Chateau d’If was located. The chateau was established in the 1500s and used as a prison for many years. It was also the inspiration and model for the Man in the Iron Mask. The views to and from the city were wonderful. When we returned to the city we enjoyed some crêpes for lunch followed by another walk this time to the Palais Longchamps that is now 2 museums. Our experience at lunch today was much better than yesterday. Later in the day we relaxed and watched the second last stage of the Giro d’Italia, in French of course. More rest and laundry were also on the menu. Over the past two days we have walked 26km around Marseille. I can’t wait to give my knee a rest on my bike.

An example of the beautiful flowers at the market today.

Chateau d’If as we approached on the ferry.

On the island with the city in the background.

Hilary and me in the cell where prisoners awaiting execution were held.

The Cathedral from the water. I think this one is even more beautiful than the Notre Dame de la Gard.

A close up of the waterfall at Palais Longchamps.

Me on a boat (bateaux) and looking happy about it.

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