To Termoli

May 6, 2023

Today’s route was planned out with our beautiful ride to San Severo two days fresh in mind. After studying the map and testing out some alternatives, I’m really pleased with the end product. Like the San Severo ride, this one sticks to minor roads that skirt the high ground and have just enough climbing to promise some appealing views. And the promise is actualized as we enjoy a really beautiful ride to Termoli, finally leaving Puglia out it’s northern end after our month here.

We can see here that I still haven’t replaced my cracked mirror that broke when I dropped my bike last autumn.

It’s very flat still for the first few miles as we skirt Lake Lesina. An overpass lifts us just high enough to get a broader perspective.

A look back at Lesina, with the Gargano massif behind.

It’s a day of modest rises - just enough climbing to provide the views.

Our last few miles in Puglia are gorgeous, and have a different feeling than further south.

Looking ahead to the primary ascent of the day, to the hilltop village of Chieuti.

In Puglia still, but the architecture is changing.

It’s calmer than it’s been lately. They’re barely spinning today.

Another hen harrier, a female this time. A better look than the previous one, and a more certain identification.

An unexpected highlight of the day comes at its high point when we bike into Chieuti, a village I knew nothing about until we arrived. It is a surprisingly interesting place, especially now when its streets are still decorated from its annual celebrations to honor the town’s patron saint, San Giorgio Martire. It’s too bad we hadn’t arrived perhaps a week earlier at the height of the celebrations and seen the oxcart race that begins in the countryside and finishes in front of the church.

Later, I’d read up on Chieuti and its history and learn a new word: arbëreshë. Arbëreshë is the name Albanians from before the Turkish invasion and religious conversion gave themselves. Chieuti is one of a number of arbëreshë communities in southern Italy, populated in the 1400’s by refugees fleeing the invasion.

In Chieuti, an arbëreshë community, decked out to celebrate their patron saint.

Video sound track: Ignaras Vedeta, by Deolinda

The descent toward the coast from Chieuti is fabulous as we pass by one stunning scene after another. There’d be more photos here but I couldn’t spare the time to stop often. We have a fixed arrival time at our apartment in Termoli, when the father of the owner is scheduled to meet with us at precisely three. After staying around longer than expected in Chieuti we’re at risk of being late, so we mostly ride straight through. Fortunately it’s generally downhill, the winds are minimal, and save for an irksome rocky quarter mile just outside of town the roads are paved and reasonably surfaced.

So not as many photos as I might like, but fortunately we’ve got a good video record.

Video sound track: The Missing Piece, by Yasmin Williams

The view north from the belvedere. Chieuti is sometimes referred to as the Port of Puglia because it’s the first town you come to in the province when approaching from the north. I think that’s Termoli straight head on the coast.

Dropping from Chieuti, up on the ridge on the left.

Fantastic country. With luck we’ll be out here somewhere again tomorrow, and maybe the day after.

One stunning viewpoint follows another for the next five miles as we drop to the coast.

Seeing the end of Puglia, but maybe not the last of it.

We’ve been making good time. I can afford another shot if I’m quick about it.

In Molise now, looking back at Puglia. The boundary here is the Saccione River, the crease at the base of the ridge.

Our discipline pays off, and we arrive at our apartment nearly ten minutes early. Which is perfect as it turns out - we’ve barely gotten out of the pedals and leaned the bikes against a wall when a motorcycle arrives and our man hops off. As perfect as you can get!

Termoli is the end point of the middle third of our tour. We’ll be here for three nights and then catch a train north up the coast to Pesaro and the start of the northern sub-tour. After a full week of cramped, small quarters, our spacious apartment here feels like a heavenly place to land.

And Termoli? Extraordinary - our new favorite city in Italy. After wandering around its historical center before dinner and checking out its restaurants, I’m already regretting the fact that we aren’t staying for four days instead as was originally planned. But that can wait. We might as well leave some reason for you to turn the page and come back to open the next one.

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Ride stats today: 36 miles, 1,600’; for the tour: 950 miles, 48,600’

Today's ride: 36 miles (58 km)
Total: 935 miles (1,505 km)

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Patrick O'HaraI see the Giro is passing through tomorrow!
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Patrick O'HaraWoah! That’s incredible. Thanks for pointing it out. It’s early in the stage, so maybe we can watch them dash by before heading off on our own ride. Thanks!
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Patrick O'Harawe’ve read up on the route. Sounds like they’ll dash through around 12:30. Termoli is going to be lit up in pink this evening in honor of the tour. How awesome!
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1 year ago

David MathersTo Scott AndersonHow exciting to see Termoli all dressed up in pink tonight for the Giro. Hopefully Naples will do the same when we see stage 6 on Thursday 🚴‍♀️
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1 year ago

Patrick O'HaraHey Scott. Glad to hear you'll see part of this stage! In 2017, on our tour of the French Alp (St. Girons), we watched the spectacle of the caravans, then the peloton swoosh by in a blur. It was mind blowing how fast these guys ride.
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1 year ago

Patrick O'HaraTo David MathersGlad to see the Mather's will also get a chance, too!
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1 year ago

Rachel and Patrick HugensTo Scott AndersonPatrick H. will be jealous
R
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1 year ago