To Ferrara

May 15, 2023

This is shaping up as a historically wet spring in Italy. It’s been raining off and on ever since we arrived in Puglia, and the foreseeable forecast ahead looks no better. Here’s what’s on tap for Brescia for the rest of the month, which is typical of everywhere around:

No respite any time soon, from the looks of it.

We really can’t complain though. Look around the CB world in Western Europe, and everyone’s in the same leaky boat: Racpat, the Mathers, the Fenwicks, the Hutchings, the Maher-Wearys, Lyle and Kirsten, Susan, Suzanne and Janos. We’re all dealing with the same situation - a decent half-day here and there followed by another dreary spell that drives you to checking out train schedules for some relief from another soaking.

And actually we’re doing exceptionally well considering with our itinerary of short, easy moving days and multi-night stays. We’ve been really lucky recently to have our schedule line up well with the breaks in the weather. We sat out the rain in Termoli and got just enough clearing to see us into Comacchio when it was time to move on. Yesterday we laid over in Comacchio while it rained, and the weather’s fine today for the ride to Ferrara. We’ll be in Ferrara for three nights, which is perfect because two days of hard rain are expected but the sun should show it’s face again when it’s time to move north. We really can’t do any better than that.

Today’s ride to Ferrara is a cinch - less than 300 feet of elevation gain in 35 miles, nearly all of it coming in the occasional canal or highway overpass. And it’s sunny, and there’s little wind. We’ll take it.

The first fifteen miles are absolutely flat as we bike west along a canal.

Still pretty flat, except for this twenty foot climb to lift us across the canal. It’s in spots like this where nearly all of the day’s elevation gain comes in.

The church at Campolungo provides some vertical contrast.

Here’s another hill to be crossed, hopping over another canal at Ostellato. Nice bridge! It reminds us of one’s we admired in Japan.

Now this is different. It’s unclear why we mapped ourselves onto this half-mile slog when a nice paved alternative was available, but it does provide contrast.

More excitement: the church at Medalana.

Perfectly timed. We’ve been looking for a secluded spot for a nature break for the last five miles.

Being stopped for a train counts for excitement on a slow news day.

Video sound track: John C, by Bud Shank

We arrive in Ferrara in the early afternoon, pleased that we can check ourselves in at the apartment we’ve booked ourselves for the next three nights. We have to phone the host to get the code to the keypad to let ourselves in though, and when we do Rachael’s perplexed when he asks if we’re here to see Bruce. Surprisingly, Bruce Springsteen will be in town Thursday for one of the first stops on his summer tour of Europe. It maybe says something about Ferrara that it’s one of only three venues he’s performing in Italy.

It’s too bad we hadn’t known. With enough planning and €300 to blow on the tickets, we could have stayed over another night for a really Boss visit.

Springsteen is coming, and Ferrara is getting warmed up for it.

Ferrara is an exceptional city, in our opinion. In spite of all the trauma of living through Covid, we enjoyed our four night stay here three years ago and are excited to be back so soon. We’re in an excellent apartment in the historical center, and rain or shine we’re going to enjoy it here. Today promises to have the best of the weather, so I make it outside with the camera while the sun shines before we leave together for dinner at a restaurant near the cathedral where we ate three years ago.

Approaching the cathedral, from Via San Romano.

The massive Estense Castle towers over the old city.

Everyone’s favorite biking surface. It will be like this when we get to Mantova too, so there’s that still to look forward to.

This is great: we ate here last time at almost the same table, so I can even reuse the caption: “The view from our table: the Scalone d’Onore (Staircase of Honor) on the Ducal Plaza.”

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Ride stats today: 35 miles, 400’; for the tour: 1,183 miles, 58,800’

Today's ride: 35 miles (56 km)
Total: 1,178 miles (1,896 km)

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Graham FinchI've been streaming the Giro and it's been pouring down there. Hopefully things perk up for you soon.
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1 year ago

Rachel and Patrick HugensWe had headwinds today bringing in the next storm. We avoided being rained upon, but not sure if wind is better than rain.
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Graham FinchI was wondering about the Giro this morning. We have the luxury of short days and aiming for the best window. They must be having some brutal days.
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1 year ago