In Verona

May 21, 2023

I’ve been running a day behind for about a week now, which is always a problem because after about a day the details start rolling off the backside of my brain, lost forever. Better to get caught up sooner than later, might a well be now.

In a sunning development, there’s been a break in the weather and today is the first of three straight days of warm, sunny weather. Almost hot relly, with the high Round 80F/28C on all three days. Suddenly it’s summer!

We’re getting out and making the most of it, of course; and we’re starting early and leave together at 10 (10AM is early, right?) to hopefully beat the crowds. We’re doing our own thing again - she’s walkin’ and I’m wheelin’ - and she’s taking the sole key as she’s apt to be back sooner than me this time. Before we part ways she frisks me to make sure I haven’t really ended up with the key myself again somehow.

She comes back raving over what a terrific hike she had, and how taken she is with Verona. She’s ready to move here, especially if we can have this apartment with its two bathrooms.

Rachael

After my fall yesterday, I wasn’t sure what I’d be able to do today but it seemed okay and there was a great hike I wanted to do. I could always turn around if I needed to. But fortunately, I was able to do the whole hike. It was an amazingly diverse hike, including running into the annual walking event called Straverona.

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Scott

Most of my ride will be a loop to the south along the Adige, but first I take a quick spin through town to see why it’s such an apparently huge tourism draw, beyond the fact that Romeo and Juliet supposedly lived here. An article listing the top sights in town named Juliet’s balcony as an essential stop, but it’s not on my list. I start with the closest attraction at hand, the Castelvecchio Bridge. Built in around 1350, it’s a wonderful bridge, fortified and attached to the old castle which gives it its name. And it doesn’t spoil my admiration of it to learn that it’s a recent reconstruction, rebuilt after the retreating Nazis completely destroyed it on their way out of town.

The fortress-side entrance to the Castelvecchio Bridge. The story is that the bridge was ordered built by the tyrannical ruler of Verona in case he needed to make a quick escape if the citizenry revolted.

Crossing the Castelvecchio Bridge. While I was stopped for this shot a man behind me called out “Bike Gallery”, responding to my shirt from there. He’s from Portland originally and worked there at one time before he came up with a better plan: moving to nearby Bassano del Grappa, where he’s lived for the last 23 years. Hmm.

Looking back at the Castelvecchio Bridge and the castle.

My plan was to bike up the bank opposite the city to the other ancient bridge in town, the Ponte Pietra Bridge, and then bike through the center of the old city before leaving it for my loop to the south. Biking along the pedestrianized riverfront, full of strollers, bikers and sun worshipers and with inspiring views across to the city, I started reassessing my view of Verona. It certainly does have possibilities, especially once I realized that the berserk crowds are an abberation and we’ve arrived at an unlucky time.

Today is the 40th iteration of Straverona, an annual springtime walking event that draws billions of walkers to the city. It explains the madness at Ponte Pietra today, when an endless mass of walkers spews out of the hills to cross the bridge in huge batches, broken up by traffic control cops alternating the flow with cars queued up to cross the road. It also explains the mob we biked pst when entering town last night, because the event includes an afternoon walk through town to see the sights.

I leave the city relieved to escape the crowds but also curious to return some day to see what it would feel like at a more normal time.

The cathedral, seen from across the Adige,

The Ponte Pietra Bridge, San Pietra Castle, and the funicular up to it. The views of Verona from above are reputed to be spectacular.

This doesn’t feel like the strategic time to walk up to the fort for the views though.

Another burst of walkers crosses the Ponte Pietra Bridge. It’s another beautiful structure, and another reconstruction. The Nazis destroyed this one too.

Ponte Pietra Tower, the entrance to the ancient city from the north. I had to time this shot between bursts of walkers so that you could see more of the bridge. You’re welcome.

The view from the bridge: the Shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes, originally fort San Leonardo.

The view from the bridge: church of San Giorgio in Braida.

The view from the bridge: the tower of Sant’ Anastasia basilica.

The Lamberti Tower, the tallest building in Verona. I’m surprised to see that it has an elevator to the top you can take for a birds-eye view of the city.

The Scala della Ragione, the external staircase to the noble level of the Ragione Palace. The Lamberti Tower, also part of the palace complex, rises directly above this staircase (see photo above).

The Blue Angel, a modern bronze statue, stands in front of the portal to the cathedral.

The city’s still too crowded, time to move on.

If I spend much time describing my 40 mile loop along the Adige I’ll never get caught up, so I won’t. It was a fine ride, if not the most dramatic. The turtles at Zevio were the highlight. I’m hoping gains hope that someone will identify them for me. What are my chances of that happening though? Such an optimist.

On the Marco Pantano Cycleroute, named for the great Italian racer.

I don’t know what this is. Just some church along the way.

I was surprised to learn that the Adige is the second longest river in Italy, barely edging out the Tiber.

The view north toward the Dolomites. Visibility is better today but still pretty hazy.

On the Pantano Cycleway. Funny they’d name such a flat trail after one of the greatest climbers in Tour de France history.

Zevio Castle, later converted to a Villa and now is Zevio’s municipal center.

Zevio Castle is surrounded by a canal and a bucolic park. There are some interesting things swimming in it.

#157: Graylag goose. Pretty odd name - his lags look pinkish to me.

Turtle Island. There are a half dozen of these in the canal, nearly all with turtles sunning on them. I wonder if that’s their purpose?

I wonder if turtles mind when another stands on their back?

In case anyone is still struggling for an identification, this should help.

Over another fine fish dinner we compared notes on our day and discussed the merits of Verona. Afterwards, a sunset walk across the impossibly atmospheric Castlevecchio Bridge settled the case for us: Verona feels like it would be a lovely place for a longer stay some year. We’ll have to make time for it somehow, but not when the Straverona is on.

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Ride stats today: 43 miles, 600’; for the tour: 1,290 miles, 60,600’

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2023 Bird List

157. Graylag goose

Today's ride: 43 miles (69 km)
Total: 1,333 miles (2,145 km)

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Keith Adams"... Verona feels like it would be a lovely place for a longer stay some year. We’ll have to make time for it somehow, but not when the Straverona is on...."

Settle in there, and leave town to go on a tour somewhere else during the event.
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