In Pesaro: Gradara loop

May 12, 2023

Serious rain is on tap for the day again, but it’s not due to start until elevenish. With rare discipline we set the alarm for an early start - Rachael is up at 5:45, gets first crack at the facilities, and is out the door well before seven. I’m not far behind her, heading west on the bike path alongside the Foglia River. The air is full of birdsong and I keep my eyes out for an exposed bird that I might get a shot at, but I don’t slow down to improve my chances. If I do that, I’ll miss my chance to get anywhere before I lose the weather.

On the bike path along the Foglia River.

Theres the rushing sound of a small rapids as the Foglia carves a channel through the banks here.

After a few miles the path ends and I’m dumped onto a minor SR road. There’s little traffic at first, and I’m congratulating myself for being out so early in the day and enjoying such refreshing conditions. It was cool enough to need my rain jacket at first, but by the time I’m five miles out of town it comes off and gets strapped onto the back for the duration.

It’s a pretty, peaceful time to be out. I really should do this more often.

About seven miles into the ride I come to the first small climb of the day. It’s not much, but getting lifted a couple hundred feet above the plain gives me a bit of perspective and I see what looks like a significant castle on a hill a few miles off. I’m curious about it, and pleased when I realize that I’m bound that way and will get a better view before long.

When I’m closer I’ll learn that it’s the Gradara Castello, standing on its rocca above the village of Gradara for nearly a thousand years. I’m tempted to declare this as my destination and bike up there for what I imagine are impressive views, but decide against it. It would make another good focal point for a day ride in the region some day, another idea to toss in the hope chest.

The grand plan for the morning’s ride was a simple out and back, just a ride to get some miles in while the weather permits. Not long after leaving Gradara though I suddenly find myself on an uncomfortable road. The traffic has picked up significantly, the road’s narrow, there’s no shoulder, there’s trucks and buses. I turn off when I come to the first spur, to the village of Fanano; but within a few hundred yards I decide I’m not liking this much either because I’m suddenly climbing at 13%.

There’s not much in Fanano to make me feel it’s been worth the pain, but at least once I’m up I get a decent view again. What I see surprises me - a city by the sea. I’m disoriented and can’t figure out what I’m seeing at first, but after staring at the map I decide it must be Cattolica, the next town up the coast from Pesaro on the other end of San Bartolo.

It takes me awhile to realize I’m looking at Cattolica here.

I can’t say I like the idea of backtracking on that busy road, so staring at Cattolica gives me the idea that I could bike down to the coast there and then return to town over the Panoramica Adriatica, riding through the park and seeing the northern end of it that I missed on the first ride.

So that’s the plan. I don’t have anything mapped out for it, but it’s easy enough to stare at the map and piece out a quiet route down to Cattolica. The hardest bit of navigation comes in Cattolica itself, when for awhile I can’t figure out a way to get across the Tavollo River that runs to sea here. I’m about to backtrack to the SS16 and cross there when I realize I’m seeing bikes coming my way. I zoom in further on the map and see there’s what must be a foot bridge near the mouth of the river.

The end of the Tavollo River, at Cattolica.

the pedestrian bridge across the Tavollo. Obviously the main cycling route.

Once across, it’s not long before I’ve found the northern end of the Panoramica Adriatica and am switchbacking my way up into the park. It’s a steady but reasonable climb, with some fine views north along the coast to make it worthwhile.

The north end of the Panoramica Adriatica is lined with pink-blossoming horse chestnuts.

Lucky to be here when the horse chestnuts are in bloom. It doesn’t last long.

The view north across Cattolica to Rimini.

Climbing into San Bartolo Regional Park.

Once I’m up high enough, I look inland and see a familiar profile - Gradara Castello, perched high on its rocca from the looks of it. I zoom in on it to be sure, and eventually it occurs to me that this is the formation I took a shot of on my first ride out here. It was in the late afternoon shadows then though so I couldn’t make out what I was seeing out there.

A now-familiar shape out there in the distance.

As before, it’s a beautiful ride the rest of the way back to town. There are many bikes but hardly any cars about to spoil the fun - I imagine I’m seeing seven bikes for every car. On the final descent to town I count eighteen bikes climbing the other way, a steady stream of them. It would be a great ride, but unfortunately this is the day I have another arrythmia event and the last few rises pass quite slowly. Phooey.

It’s nice to be be up here and see the interior in the morning light this time.

And it’s nice to see that I’m making it back to town in time again. The weather report called it about right this time.

We’ve been back in the apartment for maybe an hour or so when suddenly havoc breaks out - a fierce wind, lightning, thunder following just a few seconds after, serious rain. And then, hail - a surprisingly heavy hailstorm that whitens the lawn before our eyes. It was great to have gotten out for a ride, but it’s really great to be inside now.

We watch the weather, wondering what our chances are to make it to a restaurant without getting thoroughly soaked before we get there. Rachael’s found an attractive place a ten minute walk away that allegedly opens at seven, so when the time comes we decide it’s not raining so much that we shouldn’t make a dash for it.

We quickstep our way there and arrive not too much the worse for it, but it’s bad news when we open the door and we’re told that they don’t take customers until 7:30, regardless of what Google thinks. She looks at our faces though and our dripping umbrella and rain coats, and waves us in. We can sit and stay dry until they’re ready, and within ten minutes she’s changed into her work outfit and is back taking our order.

The meal is great. I particularly like my spaghetti with minced breaded sardines. And afterwards there’s the good news that the rain has stopped so we can swing by a gelateria on our way back to the room.

It’s surprising to see how much hail is still piled up in spots as we walk home from dinner.

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Ride stats today: 33 miles, 2,400’; for the tour: 1,116 miles, 58,100’

Today's ride: 33 miles (53 km)
Total: 1,111 miles (1,788 km)

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