June 4, 1996
Nordlingen
Early in today's ride we left the Altmuhl and gradually climbed above the river along a small tributary, eventually reaching an expansive, gently rolling agricultural plateau which we followed for the rest of the day until reaching our destination - the great walled city of Nordlingen. The farmland here, as throughout most of Bavaria, is very colorful at this time of year. The same gaudy yellow fields that we enjoyed in the Czech Republic are common here, giving a beautiful contrast to young green fields blowing gentle in the wind. Wildflowers are increasingly common and bright, including brilliant red poppies and several lupine-like purple species. Many of the fields are worked by small farming equipment, or have individuals at work in them with rakes and scythes harvesting the spring crops.
Until we arrive in Nordlingen the entire day is spent in or between modest towns and villages, along no well-defined route. We spent a fair amount of time in navigation, stopping while we studied maps or asked directions. It is certainly easier to obtain help here than in the Czech Republic. I think often of the man there who drew a map in the middle of the road for us using sticks.
Nordlingen is a wonder. Happily, we reached town early enough in the day to permit a substantial exploration. The core of the city, a circle about a half mile across, is a dense medieval town surrounded by an intact, turreted fortress wall. It has a very picturesque skyline, marked by the many towers and gates of the city wall as well as Saint George cathedral. The cathedral's tower is visible from many miles away, reminiscent of the approach to Chartres.
The church tower is open to the public. We climbed its 379 steps in a tight, narrow corkscrew ascent to the rampart at the top for a breathtaking overview of the surrounding city. After that we hiked the circumference of the town, alternately walking on the ramparts, in the oat, or inside the wall along the guardhouses. It is quite a romantic stroll, with intriguing sights and remnants of the past at every point along the way.
Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 910 km (565 miles)
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