September 10, 2022
Up in the Hills Above Setubal
Setubal
We are starting to get into the bike touring groove. We had a later breakfast this morning as we aren’t moving on until tomorrow. Breakfast first appeared to be terrific…I was almost thinking it might receive the coveted ten jammer award, and then I sipped my cappuccino. Sigh. Definitely not up to our standards. Keith was never going to give it more than an eight. It did have everything (including mimosas) and a patio with a killer view to eat it on. Still, it was missing something in terms of ambiance. A ten jammer award is not to be given lightly.
Once ready to actually get on the bikes, we laughed at ourselves. First I had to head back to the room for my gloves. I was no sooner downstairs than Keith asked if I would run up and get his helmet while he got the bikes organized. His helmet for goodness sake! Obviously we still have a bit to go before we are completely in the groove.
Next up was a bit of recognizance around tomorrow’s ferry. We discovered that oddly, bikes are not allowed on the passenger ferry. They must be on the car ferry. Strange rule from our perspective, but we found the correct terminal, purchased our tickets in advance and will be ready to roll tomorrow. The ferry looks like Portugal must have purchased it from BC Ferries. I am sure not but it does look a lot like some of the smaller vessels that serve the Gulf Islands, but painted lime green. One thing about living on an island, ferry travel is not a novelty, and this ship will feel very familiar. We had a bit of a giggle about it.
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Then it was up a killer hill to do a little sightseeing. In the elevation profile it makes the hill look like a 90 degree angle, and that wasn’t the case, obviously, but it was very steep. Our goal was the Fortaleza de Phillipe. It was started in 1582. It is an imposing structure of the type that has us wondering exactly how they managed that kind of construction back in the day. We rewarded ourselves with a break in the outdoor café, admiring the views.
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And now for a real time interlude. We are sipping Super Bock beer, in the square, listening to amazing live jazz and I am updating the blog. I pretty much feel like I have died and gone to heaven.
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Back to the narrative. After the amazing fort we went cross country to try and connect to the road we wanted. It involved some mountain biking and gravel, but this time the CN was on form and took us to where we wanted to be without a hitch. Our oldest son has told us we are on trend. Gravel biking is the new thing.
We popped out exactly where the CN had intended, on a wonderful road with very moderate traffic and a shoulder as wide as the car lane. It felt perfectly safe. Keith stopped and showed me that it was definitely the way we should have arrived in Setubal, rather than the route we took. Next time. We turned left at the Arrábida Nature Park and headed up into the hills and then back to the river.
After that there was only one small hiccup. Keith sailed right on by the turn off I thought we were to take, and was a kilometre down the hill when I caught him. Seems it wasn’t in his plans but he gamely offered to turn around and climb a kilometre back up to see what it was all about. It was about another big climb and a different view of the biggest cement works we have ever seen. Not that we have actually seen that many cement works. We rode through it yesterday on the other side, but today really gave us an idea of its massive size.
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After a couple of kilometres of climbing we decided to turn around. With every curve we thought we had to be nearing the top, but no such luck. Instead we swooped down the hill to an oasis.
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After that it was one last climb and descent back into Setubal. We have loved our stay here. Such an amazing place. When we arrived at the hotel 29 bike tourers were also arriving. They are young, on Pinarellos and on a fully supported tour. Faro to Lisbon in three days. Having a fabulous time I might add! It was a fun encounter. We would love to talk to them again at breakfast, but I suspect they will be long gone by the time we get to the breakfast terrace.
After that we headed into the pedestrian only old town for a beer and the music. At 7:30 we found what looked to us an amazing place to eat. It was virtually empty, but when we left at9 PM there wasn’t a spot to be had and our server said there were 100 people on the wait list (surely he was exaggerating) as they don’t take reservations. Dinner was delicious. Another fabulous day. We are not getting very far it seems, but we are loving Portugal and see no reason to rush through. More adventures await us tomorrow.
Today's ride: 29 km (18 miles)
Total: 153 km (95 miles)
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So glad you are enjoying Portugal:)
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