October 6, 2022
San Roque to Tarifa
A Birthday Ride to Remember…or Forget?
I entered my eighth decade today and it has been quite the occasion. Our room number yesterday was 106, so I woke up in the perfect room. We had a Spanish breakfast at the hotel and headed for Tarifa. Because of the two strong winds that affect this part of Spain, the Levante from the east and the Poniente from the west, Tarifa is the kitesurfing capital of Europe. So obviously, one memorable thing about today was the wind.
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It was blowing in San Roque too, but in exactly the right direction. After a few nervy minutes on the main highway we followed N9209 for a ride that was everything we like about riding in Spain. A quiet road with a good surface and great scenery that went on and on. I delusionally thought it was going to be like that all the way to Tarifa.
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Then we were routed off our amazing road and through the outskirts of Algeciras. This was not our idea of an ideal bike route. Definitely not scenic, and surrounded by trucks and containers. It didn’t feel unsafe at all. Just unattractive. Or real life is another way to look at it. Not touristy, that is for sure. The feeling unsafe part came later. It just seemed weird, and then it spat us out on the highway. We were climbing at this point, and there were two lanes on our side of the highway. Great for cars, but it left us with very little shoulder. The two lanes meant everyone moved over, when they could, which was great. Sometimes cars were boxed in by other cars, which was okay too, but when it was a truck that couldn’t move over, let’s just say it felt dangerous, even though a miss is a good as a mile. I often think the perception of danger is greater than the danger itself, but the noise, the buffeting. I don’t like it. N340 was basically the only road though, so we hung in there.
Then a hilarious moment. The CN saw a route into El Pelayo, which would get us off the highway for a few minutes. It meant hike a bike up a ridiculously steep gravel hill, with vicious sounding barking dogs, but hey, we took it. He did reference the Grampies at the bottom but reassured me the GPS said it went through. We got to the top after much effort and looked at each other. A dead end due to a fence. “A classic Grampie trap” said the CN, and then we had to laugh. What else can you do? We hiked our bikes back down the hill, but not before the CN loaded up large rocks on his rear rack as dog insurance.
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Unscathed, we wheeled through El Pelayo, stopping for a picnic in a lovely spot. Here everyone was definitely enjoying a mid day break as the place was dead as a doornail. I was convinced the traffic on the highway was going to ease off because it was approaching 2 PM and everyone should be home for lunch and a siesta, right? Unfortunately not, and it is the only way into Tarifa that we could figure out. On the flat and downhill we had an amazing shoulder. Going up was another story due to the double lane and I had a close encounter with a truck that will give me nightmares for days. The wind was a presence for sure. I got a kick out of it when the CN asked me if it was buffeting me too. Well yes!!!! We couldn’t decide which was worse with the wind, uphill or downhill. I focused on the shoulder and trying to keep a steady line. Despite constant reminders to self, my shoulders were north of my ear lobes. We were riding up with the wind turbines.
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Then suddenly we were at a mirador looking down at Tarifa. Stunning. We knew we were close and it was all downhill.
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Our hotel is fantastic, we made a dinner reservation and the day is already becoming a story. A birthday I will never forget for sure. We love Tarifa. We have had a great walk about, me sometimes feeling if I wasn’t holding on to the CN I would get blown off my feet. The old town is gorgeous and the whole place has a fantastic feel. A fabulous place for a 70th birthday, and our room number? 106 of course. Can you believe it? We are so lucky and I am so happy.
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Dinner and the wine were amazing.
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Today's ride: 49 km (30 miles)
Total: 1,174 km (729 miles)
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