Rumours of Hills in Portugal are True!

September 16, 2022

Zambujeira do Mar to Praia da Luz

What a beautiful spot the White Rose Hotel was, and the breakfast was excellent. We highly recommend it as a place to stay should you find yourself in Zambujeira. Our company at breakfast was a young couple on their honeymoon and a couple about our age from Maryland. It was a lively conversation, ranging from figs (they were delicious) to things to enjoy in Portugal, and the best places for sardines.

We have been very lucky with the breakfasts this year.

We tore ourselves away and headed down the road. We were aiming for the more touristed area in the Algarve so there were lots of accommodation options and we decided to make a decision on a final destination later in the day. The CN routed us on EuroVelo 1 for a bit, but when it became a sandy track we decided we could do better on the highway. We started the day with a long, gradual climb. After 45 minutes of steady cycling we had gone 8 kilometres.

One last look at the beach in Zambujeira.

In Odeceixe we came across another touring cyclist, who had a flat tire. We had a brief chat but couldn’t be useful so carried on. We really admired the public art there. Then, rather than go back to the highway we went straight up to get out of town. It was ridiculous! It did join up at the top with a lovely part of the EV 1, but it was a real grind, and not all done while seated on the bikes. When the front wheel starts coming off the cobbles it is time to push.

This sculpture was my favourite. His hands were on the brakes, his thumb ready to change gears.

Here I come. It gave me lots of time to admire this charming town.

Love the windmill. People in this town are probably pretty fit.

The EV 1 was great for a few kilometres and we enjoyed the quiet, but when it became a sandy track we decided on the highway again. It had a good shoulder, moderate traffic and the hills were long, but highway grades.

We stopped for lunch in Aljezur, a spot we had considered for tonight. We had lunch at that not most atmospheric of spots, the local InterMarché. It was up on a hill, and their café had a great view, so rather than grabbing a sandwich and trying to find a nice spot off the highway, we just sat down and enjoyed where we were.

Not quite the café view, but the parking lot view. Note the Fort on the hill.

The shoulder was great and never disappeared.

When you are up in the wind farm you figure you must be near the top but we had a way to go yet.

Then more highway riding on N120 which was just fine. The traffic continued to be moderate, the drivers patient and the hills at manageable grades. Keith turned right for the last few kilometres into Luz and we were confronted with this.

Well that is pretty clear. We were on the on ramp to the freeway, A22. Oops. The CN rerouted us.

The first attempt had us pretty much riding up the side of a cliff with a road on it. We only went about 100 m before we bailed. Then we took a fascinating route through neighbourhoods and rural properties, all going up, until we were so high we couldn’t possibly go further. We said to each other as we reached the top of each hill, that we had to descend to the water…except we would go down just to go up again. It was four of the toughest kilometres we have ever done. We had some good laughs though, as we toiled away, because there was only one way out of the situation. Have I mentioned it was a glorious 29C? I polished off all the water onboard.

These are the hills that never end. It became a running joke.

But finally they did end. We did a glorious swoop into Luz, the CN led us straight to our hotel, and we booked a second night. Why not?

View from our balcony. We are feeling very touristy and relaxed.

The Relive quit halfway through, but here is what we have:

https://www.relive.cc/view/vNOP4NP2M2O

Today's ride: 72 km (45 miles)
Total: 398 km (247 miles)

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David MathersWay to go Keith, you’re booking some great places! I don’t think your relive link is from today 🤔
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