Ronda to San Roque to Gibraltar

October 5, 2022

Train and a Big Rock

What an unexpected day for me. Good thing I am flexible (in so many ways) at least most of the time. I went to bed content in the knowledge that we were doing a short but vertical ride to Cortes de la Frontera. As I slumbered peacefully, the CN was having second thoughts, and despite my lectures about blue light, was investigating alternatives on his phone. So when I woke up in the morning we were taking the train to San Roque.

The most bike friendly hotel you could imagine.

Need to wash your bike? We have a spot for that. Also a bike stand, tools, a pump, spare parts.

Truthfully, it took me a minute or five to adjust, but it made sense. We both want to see more of the Alentejo, and we need to start thinking about getting back to Lisbon. We also want to see some of the coast and Cadiz. We enjoyed our fine breakfast at the Hotel San Francisco and rode to the train station. The Spanish only train information and ticket seller was terrific. He was able to provide us with all the information we needed and we had our tickets. We are really feeling that while the language barrier is huge (why didn’t I study a little Spanish before we left??) the people are so keen to help that it works.

This woman had an amazing amount of luggage, and she could barely lift it on the train. We looked on in astonishment.

Waiting and hoping for the best. That is our San Diego friend on the left of the picture.

Trains and loaded touring bikes are always a bit stressful. We had the wonderful luck of meeting a fine (and young and strong) man from San Diego, who was tremendous fun to talk to, and more than willing to help with getting the bikes on and off the train. He could also translate the Spanish announcements to us, which was a bonus. We were golden. Then there was the dodgy looking Spanish man with his boom box and bike and tattoos, who took us in hand and in clear Spanish and mime showed us exactly where to put the bikes. He was great.

We popped off the train with the help of our San Diego friend. Suddenly we were on the coast. We stopped in San Roque for tapas. Another wonderful experience. People really make a trip, don’t they? The women at the tapas bar we chose were so great they just made lunch a wonderful cultural experience.

A reflective moment as we ride through San Roque.

We had booked a hotel from the train station, thinking that might be it for the day, but once at the hotel decided that the rock of Gibraltar, only ten kilometres away, had to be visited. The hotel manager gave us great advice. We knew we didn’t have time to do the things we would have most liked to do there, hiking being one of my passions, but how can you be so close and not visit? We threw the bags in our room, grabbed the passports and we were off. The CN routed us off the highway at the first opportunity and we once more had the privilege of riding through neighbourhoods and seeing how people live in this part of the world.

Being the opposite of detailed planners we didn’t really know what to expect, and it was completely different from what I was expecting. Keith says he never really thought about it! It was a bit of a hoot to have to present passports and be stamped in. It certainly paid to be on a bike. The car line up was long. Gibraltar reminded us of the Algarve in some ways. All Brits, English of course, add in paying in pounds, and high rises and pubs abound. We just embraced it, cycled around and stopped for a beer in a place recommended by the hotel manager. In short, we had a blast. One of the real kicks for both of us was cycling across the runways of the airport. This is our second experience with cycling across an airport and it is such a crazy thing to do. When you look down those runways in either direction you realize how vast they are. You aren’t supposed to stop, but the CN took a stealth photo or two.

Approaching the rock. There was a fantastic bike lane for the last few kilometres.

I didn’t pay any attention to how they let you know when a plane is arriving. The last time we did this they had train type arms that came down.

Bikes resting while we have a mid ride beverage.

Approaching the border to leave. It felt like rush hour. Once more it paid to be travelling pretty much any way other than a car.

We followed the incredible number of bikes, scooters and motorbikes to leave. It was like some kind of weird rally. We were being passed like crazy by every kind of two wheeled transport that exists. Everyone was being waved through at the exit, but our Canadian passports stopped the proceedings and while the official studied them (why, I have no idea) an embarrassing line up was created, but no one moved because they were told not to.

That bloody woman in the yellow shirt has effectively halted the proceedings for everyone.

We cycled back to San Roque the way we left, with the exception of the bottle of wine search. We finally found a small Mercado and once more I was blown away by the charm and willingness to help of the Spanish people. I came away with a bueno bottle of vino tinto and smiling ear to ear.

These tomatoes in the tiny shop were the biggest I have ever seen.

I put one next to my bottle of wine to try and illustrate the size.

Back to our beautiful room we went. We have a lovely terrace, and the solution to the 9 PM dinner problem was that bueno vino tinto, cheese, prosciutto, grapes and chocolate on the terrace. The moon is beautiful tonight to add to the ambience. Our favourite tunes on our Bose speaker and we were happy. What a fantastic day we have had.

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Today's ride: 46 km (29 miles)
Total: 1,125 km (699 miles)

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ann and steve maher-wearyI hope we can repeat your fantastic day sometime. What an adventure. I love your spontaneity!
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2 years ago

David MathersWhat a hoot! Another great entry…felt like I was along for the ride. Can’t wait to hear what happens tomorrow.
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2 years ago

Rachael AndersonWise decision to take the train! Glad you made it to Gibraltar but it’s too bad you didn’t have time to get up to where the apes were. Maybe next time. When we were there we ran down our batteries on my GoPro, Scott’s camera and both phones!
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2 years ago