Hot and Hilly to Alcoutim

October 14, 2022

Vila Real de Santo Antoñio to Alcoutim

We had a shorter day today. It was a good call on so many levels. It gave us more time to enjoy our amazing hotel and the fabulous made to order breakfast. No buffet today which was a nice change. It also gave us time to go for a good wander around Vila Real de Santo Antoñio. The market was in full swing and we loaded up on goodies to supplement out lunch. Vila Real is a great spot. When we came through on the way to Spain we simply rode straight to the ferry and we hadn’t realized how lovely it is. Our hotel, the Pousada Vila Real de Santo Antoñio was without a doubt the loveliest place we have stayed this tour. Such an historic building, amazing service, kind people and full of atmosphere. Keith had to drag me out. Just kidding, but only a little.

Steve, the Brits miss their breakfast so much they have to serve it here.

The ride was very straightforward right from the start. We had a great bike lane out of town and all the way to Castro Marim. The castle was impressive but neither of us felt we needed to tour it. We had a tiny bit of backtracking there, a detour had us finding a way around. Then we started climbing up to a golf club. This road was deserted and that was the end of any traffic for the day. In fact, all the riding we did today was on roads and highways so lightly travelled they felt like very large bike lanes. It was absolutely terrific. There was lots of up and down but we were anticipating that.

One of the things we love about bike touring is simply being outside all day.

Looking back as we climb up. Traffic free road!

Once, when we really felt like we were at the top of the world, we looked out at the hills all around us and I said to Keith they illustrated the problem! We didn’t do a massive amount of climbing today, but it was so hot. It topped out at 33°C. We are inland now and what a difference in temperature. I drained both water bottles again today. Water hydrates you, but certainly isn’t refreshing when it is really, really warm. I was sweating like crazy and so was the CN. The nice thing was that it made the downhill swoops so cooling. Our hotelier tonight told me these temperatures are unusual for mid October. It should be the mid twenties.

This horse and I were commiserating about the flies.

Here is one of the photos where you can see why it was an up and down, repeat, kind of a day.

Going down. Try and keep up with that, annoying flies.

The flies were very busy being annoying. We joke that they are imports from Australia. They are fast little buggers too. I am amazed at the speed we have to be going before we can out run them. The instant we start up a hill they started circling. Better than vultures of course. They must be attracted to the sweat. Ugh. They land in my ears, get behind my sunglasses and I have been very close to inhaling extra protein several times.

The views though. When we were up high the views of the hills, orchards, popsicle pines and the smell of the forest was fabulous. Then we dropped down to the river for the second part of the ride and that was gorgeous too. So many sail boats! Keith was expecting this but I was so surprised. It was such a beautiful ride. The fact that the whole day was basically traffic free made it so easy to appreciate the sights, the sounds, the smells. The flies, not so much.

An old tractor for Ken. Rather an amazing one I thought.

We also had the classic bike touring lunch. We looked and looked and looked for a spot in the shade with a bench by the river. Absolutely nothing and we both needed to eat. Keith finally spotted a shady bench on the other side of the road and we went for it. After our yummy picnic next to the highway, washed down with warm water, we rode 250 metres around a curve and there were picnic tables on the riverside with a place to buy cold drinks. Well darn!!!

That is Sanlúcar de Quadiana in Spain across the river.

There are duelling castles here. One on each side of the river.

Alcoutim is small and beautiful with amazing views across to Sanlúcar de Quadiana in Spain. We considered going that way from Huelva but couldn’t confirm the passenger ferry is still running at this time of year. I didn’t see any evidence of it today, but it would seem crazy if it wasn’t. At any rate, it is a moot point now. Our hotel has a great pool and I had a refreshing swim. We can hear the sheep bells in Spain, it is that close, and the church bells too, chiming the wrong time. As I write this it is 7 PM on the Spanish side, but only 6 PM here. The craziness of international boundaries reminded me of an amazing book my book club read last year, Lands of Lost Borders by Kate Harris. It is about cycling, but about so so much more. A fabulous book that I highly recommend.

The river from the extensive hotel grounds.

We went up to the hotel rooftop to admire the view.

It was a short but fantastic day. We plan to get away a little earlier tomorrow to try and avoid some of the heat, but we will see. Getting away early isn’t one of our strengths!

Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 1,490 km (925 miles)

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ann and steve maher-wearyHi Kathleen
What heat you are having! What weather! Enjoying your blog immensely. Loved the book, Lands of Lost Borders by Kate Harris. I too recommended it to on the first entry of our spring trip Lisbon to Barcelona. It's a great read isn't it.
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2 years ago

David MathersKeep on going! Our day is not complete without a Classen journal post! Looking forward to hearing more each day.
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2 years ago

Kathleen ClassenTo ann and steve maher-wearyI am loving the weather. I am a real heat seeker so this weather suits me, although 33°C was starting to feel very warm! We are already talking about a return next fall.
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2 years ago

Kathleen ClassenTo David MathersIt has been fabulous. We are hoping to complete the Alentejo loop we have planned and complete the circuit back to Lisbon. We have a very days there, for bike packing and a wee bit of shopping for me. I find these last weeks of a tour bittersweet. I love home, but am so happy here in the warmth.
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2 years ago

Kathleen ClassenTo ann and steve maher-wearyIsn’t it a fabulous book? I plan to read it again when I get home. I follow Kate Harris on Instagram. Such a philosopher. I don’t remember the quote about how artificial borders are but remember enough to be really thinking about it last night, looking at Spain across the river.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonWe had lunch at Alcoutim on our way to Mertola years ago. Such a beautiful, evocative spot looking across the river at Spain. I’ve wanted to go back and stay there ever since. Like you, I’ve wondered about that ferry.
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2 years ago

Rachael AndersonWow, your photos are amazing! I don’t know how you survive the heat!
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyTo ann and steve maher-wearyHi Kathleen
Thanks for the heads up about Kate Harris on Instagram. I will follow her too. I keep checking if her new book is out, still waiting, can't wait!
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2 years ago