September 20, 2022
From the Calm to the Busy and Back
Outside Lagoa to Vilamoura
Just a break in the usual order of the narrative to say we are having the most amazing time in Portugal. The people are a huge part of that experience and we met two today who really made a difference. Now back to the usual program.
Breakfast! How we happily start our day. For us, the favourite meal. Today’s breakfast didn’t disappoint. It had all the usual pleasures and the croissants were delicious. Our hotel out in the country hit all the right notes. Quiet, peaceful and wonderful people. This was the calm today.
The Chief Navigator had us on the right track immediately. He rode his bike down the steep hill from our hotel, I walked. That seemed the sensible option for me. We turned right and did a more gradual climb than we would have had going the way we did to the restaurant last night. It was perfect. Then we hopped on Eurovelo 1 and followed it most of the day.
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We went through Porches and then down to the water at Armaçao de Pera. It was amazing, in all kinds of ways. The number of high rise residential buildings is such a surprise to us, even though we had been told. When you think it through though, that is what you want, rather than sprawl eating up the landscape. Armaçao had charm too, and an historic core that was fun to spin around. Best of all was Tourist Information. We have found these to be hit and miss affairs wherever we go and so haven’t been in one this trip. We stopped the bikes just in front for a look around the town though, and I went in. That was the first person to make our day today. She was just wonderful, and I left with great information, her recommendations and a map of EV 1. We don’t need the map for navigation, but it sure makes spelling towns correctly so much easier when writing the blog!
We cycled around the Fisherman’s Quarter and then carried on out of town. This is when things became confusing. Not the route, the CN had a lock on that, the where does Albufeira begin and end was confusing. Suddenly we were in major Algarve sprawl and we knew where we were in one sense, but one community was just running into another in an endless series of high rises, low rises and mansions. There didn’t seem to be a beginning to Albufeira, or an end. We stopped for lunch. Always eat when you are puzzled. Works every time.
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I completely understand why people flock to this area. It is gorgeous. Not the sprawl necessarily but Canadians flock to Waikiki after all, and it is the same thing. I did find myself wondering as we cycled along, how all these businesses, restaurants and hotels had survived Covid. It must have been brutal. Tourism is the economic driver of the region. It must have been so hard on all the people who depend on tourism for their livelihood.
Back to the cycling though, the CN was a magician. He led us unerringly through the busyness without a hitch. Soon we were approaching Vilamoura and suddenly it felt like we were in Palm Desert with an amazing beach, rather than Portugal. Golf courses, resorts, an amazing bike lane.
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We had a moment at the beach when we found the property I had wanted to book this morning was no longer available. So much for the CN’s assertion that Booking.com is just yanking your chain when the they say only one room left! We have landed on our feet though. We are in the most amazing apartment, with, oh the excitement, a WASHING MACHINE. Life is very, very good.
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The second person to make our day was the server in the hotel restaurant. The most delightful man you can imagine. I told him we love Portugal, but truly, I have left my heart in places like Setubal, Milfontes, Zambujeira and Porto Covo. Turns out he is from Zambujeira. We bonded.
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It has been an amazing day, with amazing experiences. We are so very lucky.
Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 538 km (334 miles)
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