Sagres to Lagos

November 9, 2024

The hotel’s buffet breakfast exceeded our expectations! They were admittedly low because of the low room rate and the fact that it wasn’t extra, but it was excellent, easily equivalent to what other hotels we’ve experienced charge 10-12€ or more for.

Loading the bikes after a very good breakfast

Yesterday’s original loose plan had been to stay at Salema, highly recommended in Rick Steves’ guidebook. Maybe it’s the effect of the popularity of his guidebook (remember the crammed trolley back in Lisbon? Al said a large number of passengers were carrying a copy) but there was no accommodation in our price range available there so we had decided to stay and explore Sagres.

Today’s goal was Lagos since it looked like an interesting city and was a good distance if we opted for the coastal roads after Vila do Bispo.

The quiet road parallel to the highway between Sagres and Vila do Bispo is quiet for a reason but an excellent bike route.

First, though, we needed to get on the N125 (with its wide shoulders) for the couple of km between Vila do Bispo and Raposeira because the EV1 route looked very sketch on the map. However, the route I’d created on RWGPS wanted us to go the wrong way on an exit ramp to get onto the highway and we weren’t about to do that. It took us a little while to find the correct way, hence the squiggles on our track. But 2 km on the highway was enough and the little single-track road to Figueira was beautiful. No photos, though, sorry.

From Figuera to Salema was about 2 km on a wider road up and over a ridge. Descending we rode past rather nice-looking new residential developments, clearly built for visitors. It would be a lovely place to stay for a while if we were beach-holiday people. It didn’t look at all like a party town.

There were oversized lounge benches along a beach overlook that just cried out for a selfie. Al’s attempt turned out better than mine.

A better look at that mural. Rua dos Pescadores is on the left.

To leave Salema, Rua dos Pescadores looked like a more interesting way than the road suggested by RWGPS (we regard planned routes as general ideas) so we decided to go that way. The steep cobbled climb through the village was not rideable, at least not by us on our loaded bikes.

One of many little mosaics along Rua dos Pescadores

The upper part wasn’t quite so steep. Still cobbles, though.

After a beautiful km, we joined the wider paved road of our planned route through a few more white holiday-home developments. Leaving those behind, we came to the top of a steep descent with the dirt/gravel track taken by EV1 making a loop off to the right. We took EV1 here since we could see the descent and it didn’t look too steep.

View from EV1. See that road going up on the other side?

First, though, the cobbled flat road across a river flat. We were passed here by a fast-moving loaded cyclist.

Al on the steep climb. There was a caution sign stating 16%. Another cyclist passed me as I was stopped getting my camera out.

Around the corner we entered the outskirts of Barrancão and the busy Algarve strip that didn’t let up for the rest of the way to Lagos.

We finally made it to the pleasant but touristy old town with its narrow cobbled streets and pedestrian areas.

Lunch. Most of the options looked enormous (Al ate all of his club sandwich and the fries; I enjoyed my right-sized salad.

We booked a hotel that turned out to be only 500 m further down the street we were already on. It was a challenging 500 m to ride due to the narrow cobbled road with pedestrians everywhere. At Hotel Mar Azul, there is only a door at street level leading up a flight of stairs to the reception on the first floor. We were instructed to bring our bikes up and they were stored in a small covered outdoor space near the small reception desk.

Once settle in, we went for an explore.