Lisbon: first impressions through bleary eyes

October 30, 2024

After depositing our bikes, still in their cases, and our little carry-on suitcases (these are easier to deal with than a loose pannier) at the hotel, we headed out the door with two goals: stay awake and get something to eat.

Our hotel is very close to Praça da Figuera so we headed that way and then further to Praça Dom Pedro IV. From there we could see the castle so up we went. On our way we saw a large queue for the famous 28E trolley. We can only imagine what it would be like in high season! It was the same with the castle—first we saw an increasing number of other tourists walking up as the various routes converged, all, like us, wondering how to find it, given that the signage had disappeared. It was pretty obvious by the crowds when we got there but we balked at 12.50€ each to go into the grounds, knowing that there were other viewpoints in this hilly city. Down and up we walked, through the Mouraria district (I think). We found a small restaurant for a mediocre lunch, where I opted for an omelette as my stomach always takes a few days to adjust to a time change.

Finding the crowds as we approached the castle

There’s a dog park with agility equipment near the top. Off to the right of this view is a wall with portraits of dogs (special pets, agility champions?)

Speaking of time change, it was only 7 hours for us this time. Not only is Portugal an hour behind France and Spain, Europe had just switched to standard from daylight savings time, a few weeks ahead of North America.

More wandering until we headed back to the hotel for a 3 pm check-in and collapse for a few hours of sleep.

View from a random miradouro: castle on the left; Ponte 25 de Abril in the centre.

Looking down on the staircase and funicular we saw in one of the videos we watched about Lisbon.

View from thd Miradouro da Senhora do Monte

On our way down, we walked through this lovely little green park. It was popular with people just enjoying the fresh quiet.

Our route took us down the colourful staircase we’d seen from above

I liked the streetcar mural—the yellow funicular is just on the other side of the wall

Elements of a Lisbon street scene: cobbled roadway, tourist-tour tuk-tuk, laundry out to dry…

More typical street scene—narrow roadway with trolley tracks

People were still in a large queue for the 28E trolley. The trolley in the centre is signed 28 but didn’t seem to be in service as we passed.

After our nap, we walked in the other direction, towards the river. We found the ferry terminal for our departure in a couple of days and also the Mercado da Ribiera.

Inside the Mercado da Ribeira is the Time Out Market, a sort of high-end food fair. Instead of the usual fast-food outlets, there are small branches of local restaurants each serving a limited menu. We ate here.

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Scott AndersonNice post, Jacquie. This is the first thing I’ve read that makes me think I’d like to see Lisbon again. Our only visit, 27 years ago, was pretty nightmarish because the city was so difficult to bike into then.
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1 month ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Scott AndersonI don’t think we will be biking in when we return to Lisbon, nor will we be riding far to the ferry dock when we leave. It doesn’t look like a bike-friendly city at all, despite the e-bike tours we’ve seen.
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1 month ago

Kathleen JonesMany years ago, in my youth, I was in Lisbon for a week or so. I emerged from the very long train ride from Madrid into very muggy air (compared to Madrid - duh), but also seeing the Golden Gate Bridge. As a San Franciscan I was pretty weirded out there for a bit. I really liked Lisbon and would go there again.

Looking forward to the rest of your tour.
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1 month ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Kathleen JonesWe haven’t seen it up close in daylight yet but it looks like a much larger version of the Lions Gate Bridge. We ride across LGB often but no plans to ride this one!
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1 month ago

Margie AndersonOne of my favourite city’s, definitely not bikeable. Glad you tried the 28E trolly and time out market. The monastery of Jeronemo and the age old bakery next door for their famous Portuguese tarts is my added recomendation! Enjoy!!
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1 month ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Margie AndersonWe didn’t take the trolley as it looked like it would be a long wait and a crowded ride. Maybe when we are back in Lisbon near the end of November it will be less crowded. Belem is the plan for today.
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1 month ago