November 15, 2024
Alcoutim to Mertola
Well, it turned out that the kitchen being open and there being a full menu available are two different things. However, there was enough available that we didn’t have to choose going out into the dark rainy night or going hungry. We each had soup, a chicken tosta (sort of like grilled sandwich), a glass of white wine, and a piece of cheesecake.
I woke several times during the night and every time there was either pounding rain, thunder, lightning, or all three. It wasn’t any better in the morning but the weather apps indicated there would be a lull midday. Accordingly, we lingered over breakfast and departed around 11.
It was actually sunny as we pedalled away from the hotel. We started climbing right away and then the sun disappeared. It wasn’t raining, though, so we were happy.
Then, 12.5 km into the ride, just as we passed Santa Marta, we encountered this:
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A Google search told us that the bridge ahead was closed for the months of October and November for a major resurfacing, and the detour was through Giões, wherever that was. Then a ready mix truck came from the construction area (well out of sight as the barrier was just after the last turnoff to Santa Marta and the bridge was 3.5 km ahead). We asked the driver whether it would be possible to cross with bikes and he responded that it should be okay. So we bravely set off down the hill that we would have to climb back up if we were denied.
But we weren’t. The only workers we saw were a technician testing the fresh concrete and the driver of the (different) readymix truck emptying its load into the concrete pump. They waved us to walk through. Many “obrigados” and “obrigadas” were expressed.
Just past the bridge, I had to record the sign there:
Riding up the hill, I stopped to photograph one of the old distance markers. I’d been kicking myself for not capturing one yesterday.
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As we climbed, the grade lessened but so did the light. It seemed rather dark for only 1 pm and sure enough, the storm moved in. Al waited for me in one of the concrete bus shelters where I joined him and we put on our tights and decided to continue, hoping the thunder and lightning off to our left would move away.
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Well, it didn’t. Instead, the rain started and there was a lot thunder and lightning off to our left, eventually getting as close as a 4-second count away. The rain intensified and we were soaked. Al took this video while waiting for me at another bus stop, about 7 km before Mértola.
From there, it was a final dash to shelter in Mértola. I told Al to just choose a hotel when he got there and send me a WhatsApp message (these appear on my Garmin). On my way, I passed a small herd of cows in a field, doing what cows do, and looking completely oblivious to the storm raging around them.
Al booked us into Hotel Museu, the sister hotel to our lodging in Alcoutim. It was the first sign he saw on entering the town and was one of the two on our short list.
They opened an oversized accessible washroom on the street level for us to store our bikes and no problem to get some extra towels. So far, we are very pleased with the service.
We’ve just finished a sizeable snack and beverage in the lounge as the rain, with occasional flashes of lightning and claps of thunder, continues outside. We are warm and dry.
Today's ride: 37 km (23 miles)
Total: 547 km (340 miles)
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