April 8, 2019 - Azóia to Almada
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Charming 53 Guest House, 35€
I had read somewhere that I was supposed to go down to the attached cafe for breakfast, but when I came out of my room, there in the common area were pastries, bread, meat and cheese and a bottle of peach juice. I just wanted to make sure in case I started eating someone else's meal, and sure enough the cafe was locked up with not a soul around. So I ate.
I carried everything down to the driveway, packed on the bags, and was away through what was now a construction zone along the road. Because of the rain over the past few days, the road was a bit messy and wet, but not bad. What was amazing, was that rather than the heavy low clouds of the past few days, the sky was crystal clear and everything was sparkling in the sun. Not that far away I could even see the Atlantic in the near distance. It was beautiful.
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After about one km my route turned northwards and I was again on new road for me. It was gravel off-and-on for the next bit, but the terrain was really beautiful, again through groves of eucalyptus (which were really fragrant now), pine, cork and olives. There were some pretty nice houses tucked in amongst the trees in some spots.
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Most of the first half of the riding was a long downhill heading to the northeast. The route wound its way through some towns, some villages and lots of countryside. But down, down, and down, it went. The closer I got toward Almada (thus Lisbon, too) the less countryside there was and the more suburbs, until there was no more countryside at all.
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The route wound through quiet suburbs and traffic-less streets and actually paralleled the motorway and train tracks toward the 25th April Bridge into Lisbon. Then I was on the N10 which was a really busy road into Almada. In a few spots there were bike paths, but mostly I rode along a single lane with cars zipping past right beside me.
I am not one to take a train to skip parts, but if a person didn't like cycling through major cities on busy roads, I think it is fairly easy to get from Lisbon to well south of Almada by train (or vice-versa) . Drivers gave as much space as they could, but it was just darned busy.
The road was still descending toward my guest house. I knew I was close when I came to a pedestrian-only section which I had read about. Yes, there it was.
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I had been in contact with the owners and was told that the people in my room had left at 11 am so I might not be able to get into the room until regular check-in time of 2 pm. I was hungry, so looked up a good restaurant of the many in this little area, and found Cabrita was about 20 m away.
Though the waiter ended up being a pretty good guy, as I approached the place, he was one of those servers who bugs everyone who walks past. I did ask him what he suggested and ordered it - the sea bream, with potatoes and salad. It was quite good and it was fun watching so many people walking back and forth. This pedestrian way is only about 100m from the ferry dock so everyone coming to or leaving Almada on foot pretty well comes this way.
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After lunch I walked back to just outside of my guest house when a young fellow came over to me and said my room was ready. He offered to help, but I was fine to carry the bike up to the first floor where my room was. It is big and is 'ok' but the best thing is that the balcony looks down and along the pedestrian street, so that should be neat once the sun sets.
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It rained a bit so I waited in the room to snooze, and once the sun returned, I headed up to the old centre to meander the winding streets. This included walking up to the lookouts with awesome views of Lisbon across the estuary. I could see Praça do Commercio, São Jorge Castle, the 25th of April Bridge, the statue of Jesus, Monument to the Discoveries and the Tower of Belem. And much, much more, of course.
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Oddly, I coud see really dark clouds to the northwest, and was thinking Sintra must be getting a bit wet. I continued to wander the streets and along the shoreline walk. And then the sky dumped down with rain and I was soaked once again. I avoided some of it by taking shelter in the ferry terminal, but I was wet, my shoes and socks were wet. Now I would have to dry everything again.
Today's ride: 38 km (24 miles)
Total: 413 km (256 miles)
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