April 6, 2019 - Troia to Setúbal - Some More Portugal: Not Just Kicking the Tires (Tour 18) - 2019 🇵🇹

April 6, 2019 - Troia to Setúbal

A ferry ride and a restful off-bike day

Heart

Comment

Rio Art Hotel, CAD$115 incl breakfast

There were two options to cross on a ferry to Setúbal on a ferry - either the pedestrian ferry or the ride/drive-on ferry. The former was about 125 m from my apartment; the latter was about 5.5 km back up the road from whence I had come yesterday. At the resort reception yesterday, the desk clerk said that I would be fine on the pedestrian ferry with a folding bike. So, the first thing I did this morning was to see if I could carry my folded bike on my little luggage trolley. Ummm, NOPE. Which meant I would have to bag and carry the bike, and bring my bags on the trolley instead.

I gave it about a millisecond of thought, realizing there was the real chance of pulling something, so decided to take the ride-on ferry instead, and just hope the weather was good for the fifteen to twenty minutes of cycling it would take to get there. I had been hoping to stay off of the bike today to get a break, but oh well.

Around 10 am the sky looked promising, so I headed out with the idea of taking the 11 am ferry. Having had the wind in my face yesterday, today it was at my back. I think there was a very slight uphill, but not to mention, so I literally flew along the road. And no rain. And no rain. And no rain.

Cycling along at about 20 to 25 km/h I was to the toll booth in no time at all. Not only was I able to get the ferry paid, but I bought the green card which I can also use in Lisbon for any of the buses, trains and the ferry across the estuary into Lisbon. I got one the last few times in Lisbon as well, but had forgotten how useful and economical they are. If I remember correctly, you can load them with various modes of transportation and it ends up being cheaper than buying one-offs every single time.

As I was paying for the card it started to rain substantially. I could have waited under the little canopy, but not knowing how long it would last, I just cycled up and over the hill and down to the booth by the terminal. Yes, I got a bit damp, but not too bad, and when the sun came out moments later, I dried out within a short while anyway.

From the ferry dock I could see clam diggers (?). -- Troia, Portugal

I had about 45 minutes to wait so I watched the clam diggers a few hundred metres away, took pictures of the sandy beaches which ran in both directions, and just generally enjoyed the smell of the eucalyptus and pine trees mixed with the sea air.

The Dahon safely sheltered while I waited for the ferry. You might just make out my reflection in the glass. -- Troia, Portugal

When I realized the sun was out for more than a few minutes, I pulled my bike back out of the little shelter in case this was forbidden. Though the bike was cleaner than many people's shoes, sometimes rule people come along and waggle their fingers at you because 'this is forbidden'.

Yesterday I cycled on the other side of these dunes. The sand makes for beautiful beaches. -- Troia, Portugal

Somewhere in the distance is a wee lime green speck that is the oncoming ferry. That is Setúbal in the distance. -- Troia, Portugal

I watched toward the city for the ferry until I could see the bright lime green boat on its way toward me. When it arrived, there were another four or five vehicles, and no other bicycles. As the ferry unloaded a group of four cycle tourists emerged, but not wanting to miss my ferry I wished them happy cycling and boarded.

It was that simple. The agent read my card then I rolled down the ramp and leaned the bike against one of the walls? Bulwarks? Barnacles? Sea urchins? Squidwards? (Of course, I jest) I don't know my sea-faring terms! Suffice to say, I leaned my bike against something so it wouldn't fall over on the crossing of the estuary, then I enjoyed the WINDY ride over. Thankfully, I had battened down the hatches because not only was it windy out, but with the motion of the ship, it added to the air movement to be fairly uncomfortable and cold. The views did make up for it, though, so I just crossed from side to side of the ferry to see what I could see.

The nice thing about landing at a ferry port is that often you end up in the historic centre. Today, that was the case. With a few turns and such I was at the Rio Art Boutique Hotel. I could see that I was going to like it. It was in a historic building right in front of the old centre's promenade park.

I rolled the bike in through the sliding doors and checked in. As per my norm, I was early, so the room was not yet ready, but the very amiable clerk said I could store my bags in their office and the bike in a locked room with their own rental bikes. Then he offered me some mouscatel (I am not sure if that is what it was, and will have to check, but it was a sweet local wine that tasted somewhat like brandy. Very tasty.)

At home I had researched restaurants, and had found what many considered to be the best fish restaurant in the city. It was about two minutes from here, right beside the huge fish market and by the fish docks. Looked promising!

From outside, I could see a display of raw seafood spread out on crushed ice. I wasn't sure if it was the restaurant or a fish market, so I stepped inside. The woman asked if I was there to eat, to which I nodded, and she waved me into the back room where there were set tables for a few dozen. But it was empty.

As I perused the menu, I used the wifi to translate some of the menu items and to read a few of the reviews. Yup, this was the place, and it was rated very high on TA. I ended up ordering the sea bass with potatoes and red wine. At first she brought me 50 cL but she must have seen my eyes because she asked if I wanted 25 cL instead - yes, please, I told her.

The meal was amazing. The same yukon gold-ish potatoes done in olive oil and herbs. The fish just melted in my mouth. Some people might have been alarmed that the whole fish was on the plate, including its teeny tiny little teeth, but do not worry. The fish is to die for and that's how it is served when done properly. Fish sticks are not real!

At the entrance to the restaurant you could choose the seafood you wanted to eat. These would have come from the huge fish market located next door. -- Setúbal, Portugal

Across the road from my hotel is this beautiful pathway and fountain into the historic centre. -- Setúbal, Portugal

One of the little squares where some of the town's merchants lived hundreds of years ago. -- Setúbal, Portugal

Sea bass, potatoes and red liquid for lunch. The placed was jam packed at lunch time. No wonder. -- Setúbal, Portugal

As I ate, locals continued to pile into the place, including a great big group of nearby dock-workers. The place ended up being packed. Always go where the locals go. They know.

On the way out I snapped a few photos of the fish on ice. As I was doing this, people coming in were pausing to point out to the staff what they wanted to eat - this fish, those clams. Very cool. Another fellow told me that just around the corner is the big fresh fish market and it is worth going to see. So I did.

Huge chunks of tuna that must have been worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. Huge fish heads of who-knows-what kind of fish. Eel-looking things. Fishies of this, that and the other colour, size and shape. Really amazing, especially since all we see at home is pork, beef, pork and beef.

I did some more wandering around the historic centre, again finding many abandoned buildings, and those that were open often with no shoppers inside of them. Once upon a time I can remember many of these old buildings holding really chic clothing boutiques, perfumeries and trinket shops. I suppose that even here the big A to Z store has knocked them out until they died.

I wandered back to my hotel and was able to get into my room. The clerk showed me the way and pointed out the complimentary bottle of wine and water. A little while later he came up to the room with a nice plate of regional cake along with the paper version of the hotel review card. Little does he know that my tummy is the way to a perfect score.

The room is really chic. Where yesterday it was modern cold, this one is warm and inviting, with a balcony that opens onto the park in the old centre. The staff is amazing and the location is all I want in a place to stay - in the old centre. I think that tonight I will finally be able to get some nice night photos of this park and street. Stay tuned.

Not only is my hotel great, but the view out my balcony is along this central park and up into the mountains where I will be heading tomorrow. -- Setúbal, Portugal

If you have been reading along with me, then you know I am somewhat obsessed with the weather forecast. At this point, it says there are light rain showers here in the city, but there aren't. There are clouds, and intermittent sunlight, but everything is dry. For tomorrow, it says the morning will be slightly rainy, winds from the south-west (I am heading west) and temperatures up to 17 C which is a far cry from yesterday's 10 C. And after that, for Monday and Tuesday, there is rain in the forecast, but very little. Good news, indeed.

Today's ride: 7 km (4 miles)
Total: 339 km (211 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	3
Comment on this entry	Comment	0