April 30, 2017
April 30, 2017 - Malveira to Sintra: Here in 1982. Back in 2003. Three-peat in 2017. I love Sintra!
Hotel: Sintra Center Guest House, Sintra
HOW big is a Portuguese mm, anyway? Last night when I checked the forecast they called for 1 mm of rain. I'm pretty sure that what I heard outside and jumped up to check at 6:30 am was about 1 mm per minute! It was pouring. So much for a dry day on the bike.
I was edgy to get going so revved up the GPS only to find that it would not calculate the route to 100% It just sat at 79. Apparently there were so many road options that it ran out of memory even trying to sort out a route. Furthermore, with no internet I could not screenshot the route, either. This would have to be old-style til the GPS kicked in.
Fortunately, the casa owner was up to open the shed for the bikes, so I confirmed the direction to the left. No, he said, to the right. With no sun I had no bearing and would have headed all the way to the Spanish border if I had not realized my mistake.
For the time being I followed the directions - to the second roundabout, veer left and continue to Sintra. In no time things were pretty damp, but after stopping for a pastry breakfast, I could see clearer skies ahead. Sure enough, the rain stoppped and out came the sun. Around the same time the GPS kicked in, and that is when the route got interesting.
The casa owner had given a main road route. The GPS wanted us on smaller roads. So of course, smaller roads means hillier. And way more picturesque. The route was quiet, beautiful but steep in places, so there was a certain amount of walking up some of the hills. Closer to Sintra, the route settled onto the N247 from which I could see the Moorish castle and the Pena Palace, and there were some glimpses of the sea. Then there it was. I was so excited - the city sign announcing Sintra. It had been 14 years since I was here but I immediately recognized the pedestrian street where my accommodations were located last time. This time, though, was a spot just down from the National Palace. Down a long winding and narrow street with views straight up the hills and to the castle. This place is a converted farm, now with a pool and nice green areas and a stream running through it.
The place is in a pretty spot and is pretty itself. We were early so the room was not cleaned but we were welcome to put our things, including the bikes, into the room. Then off in search of lunch. One nondescript place down a side street was the right place at the right time. It had started to rain so in we went. What started out as a place with one other group, became a packed restaurant over the course of our meal. Cod and roasted potatoes in garlic olive oil and red wine. To-die-for delicious, the fish melted in your mouth. On the way out we had to squeeze by about fifteen people. Some Portuguese people in line said they loved the place and always come when in town.
Now the 18,000 steps up the meandering paths to the Moorish castle. Not done since 1982 when I came with my Mom, Dad and sister when I was still in high school. The views were amazing, the air fresh, and my legs like rubber. Coming down the other side, we wandered through the shops and boutiques before stopping for a drink to re-hydrate along the main road to the historic centre. I had noticed it earlier, but now with the road right in front of me, it was really obvious how heavy the traffic was. In 2003 it was winter and nobody was around. So it would seem that either the season makes a big difference and/or Sintra is no longer 'our' little secret.
Legs exhausted, it was time to wander down to the guest house for some late afternoon pics of the beautiful grounds as well as checking out the adjacent farm with its chickens, ducks, sheep and piggies.
Later than the normal time of 8 am, breakfast here tomorrow, we were told, is at 9 am, likely due to its being outdoors on the deck. Then it will be off to Cabo da Roca!!!
- Sintra, Portugal
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- Sintra, Portugal
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- Sintra, Portugal
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- Sintra, Portugal
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- Sintra, Portugal
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- Sintra, Portugal
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- Sintra, Portugal
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Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 335 km (208 miles)
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