April 24, 2017
April 24, 2017 - Peso da Régua to Caldas de Aregos: Cherries, cherries and more terraces of cherries
Hotel: Alojamento das Caldas
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ANOTHER great day following the Douro, the N222 was way above the river with awesome views up and down the river in both directions. River cruisers passed by every now and then. There was one long climb, but at this point leg strength has increased to the point that hills aren't bad now.
The terraces have gone from grapes, olives and almonds, to cherries, oranges, grapes and olives, and from quite arid to more green vegetation. The astounding beauty of the land continues unabated with photo op after photo op. I'm sure that anyone looking at the final collection of photos will comment on the endless number of terrace photos.
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Not only has the terrain changed, but so has the number of homes in the hills and cars on the roads. This is not to say that the traffic is overwhelming, but it is generally increasing. I suppose with the proximity to Porto, it is much easier to get in and out of a large centre for whatever one might need.
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This being said, where are the tourists? Yes, it is cold for the locals, but I thought the English were in love with Portugal? This whole journey along the Douro might just be the most under-rated gem in the traveling world. Unless I am out in left field, I think this might be an up-and-coming destination. And for cyclists, whether individually, with others, or even in organized groups, this is a must for any and all.
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The last few km after Resende were a bit of a teaser with more ups and downs. Arriving in this thermal town, it would appear that it is past its heyday, though it is trying and I think it is poised for a revival if the world finds out. There is a nice little marina, a thermal baths building, and a lot of former grand estates for sale dying for a few bucks to restore them to grand hotels, restaurants, or homes. They are here for the buying and within 100 km of Porto.
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I was starving so we went to the adjoining restaurant for rancho, which is a typical Portuguese stew, with bread, vinho tinto, and flan for dessert. Even now into early evening, I am still full after that delicious stew.
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To burn off lunch a walk was taken past some of the old closed hotel buildings, old estates and the brand new marina along the river. A river boat cruised by and a number of people on Sea Doos zipped out to play on the wake from the boat.
And that was how this great cycling day ended. The sun slipped behind the nearby terraced hills, the birds continued to twitter and say 'tweet' and I anxiously looked forward to tomorrow's cycling.
Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 134 km (83 miles)
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