April 22, 2017 - São João da Pesqueira to Valença do Douro: Fabulous Casa wayyyyyyyy up the road from the river - A Dabble of the Douro then Leaning to Lisbon (Tour 17) - 2017 🇵🇹

April 22, 2017

April 22, 2017 - São João da Pesqueira to Valença do Douro: Fabulous Casa wayyyyyyyy up the road from the river

Hotel: Casa Cimeira

WE got a pleasant surprise last night when we were told that the included breakfast would be at 8:30. I had no idea that there even was an included breakfast. Breakfast included bread, cheese, juice, and amazing Portuguese oranges. Our very pleasant hostess then saw us out as we packed the bikes and rolled through town. It was still a bit cool but with the slight climb as we left town, we were warm enough without our coats.

Awesome stone walls and fences along the route. Douro River Valley, Portugal.

Throughout the area are hill after hill of terraces covered with grapes used to make wine and the world-famous Port. Douro River Valley, Portugal.

We climbed a while but then down turned the road as it wound through the hills and valleys, sweeping curves along the grapevines and like yesterday, arid towering hills completely covered with the graceful back and forth arches of the terraces.

The beauty of the region was breathtaking km after km after km. Almost overwhelming. Then we started to get glimpses of the Douro River in the distance and could see a town, a bridge, then a river-cruising boat. The blue of the water against the green vineyards, and brown walls and ground set against the backdrop of the blue sky.

During the climbs there were often breathtaking views down to the river. Douro River Valley, Portugal.

After free-wheeling down for 15 km, numerous photos and awesome views, we came to the edge of the Douro. It was noon-ish so we decided to turn right and head into Pinhão, about four or five km away. There was more traffic than earlier, but not bad, to speak of.

The entrance to town was a steel-arched bridge that I had seen in photos and online videos. We made a stop at the well-known railway station where there are panels of azulejos illustrating the wine industry of the area. We picked up a few snacks and oiled our squeaky bike chains at a nearby repair garage before crossing back over the bridge and back along the river.

The turnoff for our casa's village was at the spot where the gates for the quinta associated with Sandeman port. Though I was told a few days ago that it is a 'dangerous' wine, it was neat to see a familiar wine's 'home'.

The bridge into Pinhao with one of the traditional wine boats now used to ferry tourists along the Douro River. Pinhão, Portugal.

The road was steeper than a steeply inclined arm. The views overlooking the Douro just got better and better. White river cruisers chugged past, more bends in the river were visible, and after rolling down 700 m earlier, the intensely difficult struggle to climb back up 450 m hurt. It hurt to give up the altitude only to claw our way back up again!

Just across the bridge into Pinhão, Portugal.

View of the Douro from a cafe in Valença do Douro, Portugal.

All the way up, numerous cyclists on their racing bikes went by, up and down, as they practiced for an upcoming race in the area. One of the final climbs was almost impossible to walk, it was so steep. But then the road leveled a bit, save for the final walk up the windy street to the gates of the casa.

Inside we were greeted by Miguel, son of the original owner, who ushered us inside for some of their 25-year-old port. Delicious, and the bar room was incredibly beautiful. Then we were greeted by three Danish couples who have been here before and raved about it. So I already knew I was going to love it here.

Awesome property of Casa Cimeira. The only 5/5 I have seen on Tripadvisor. Valença do Douro, Portugal.

After cleaning up, we decided to walk down to a nearby cafe which had a balcony that overlooked Pinhão and the Douro way down below and in the distance. There we had a carafe of delicious local red wine as we admired the awesome views. Once we returned to the casa, we joined the Danes under the cherry tree by the pool with glasses of the casa's wine. Again, delicious. Chatting with the other guests felt so homey it seemed I had known them all for years.

We had chosen to join in with the other guests for the communal dinner prepared by the hosts. Everyone sat around a huge farmhouse style table which sat 14. In addition to the Danes, there was an American, a Portuguese woman and several Italians. The meal started with appetizers in the bar room then moved to the dining room where we had shrimp, steak, and veggies, then a fancy and delicious coconut cake for dessert. Casa white or red wine was available to all. Following dinner everyone moved to the bar room where we sampled their fig brandy, grappa, port or wine, depending on preferences. The American brought in his guitar and started playing and singing. Even the fellow who is building the other son, Paulo's, house joined in with the gathering. Those who know me know that I am always early to bed. Tonight I was there til midnight. It was the best hotel, casa, or resort stay that I have experienced. On a scale of 1 to 10 it was an 11.

Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 72 km (45 miles)

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