April 20, 2017 - Porto to Pocinho and Vila Nova de Foz Coa: Was Supposed to be 'Train Ride Along the Douro' but now 'Taxi' - A Dabble of the Douro then Leaning to Lisbon (Tour 17) - 2017 🇵🇹

April 20, 2017

April 20, 2017 - Porto to Pocinho and Vila Nova de Foz Coa: Was Supposed to be 'Train Ride Along the Douro' but now 'Taxi'

Hotel: HI Hostel Vila Nova de Foz Côa

The awesome old-style hotel had an azulejos-covered restaurant where breakfast was served. Croissants, bread, fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee, tea, melon, and other assorted fruits. Delicious.

Then all we had to do was bag up our things then bring everything out to the street to await our taxi. At 9:00 am sharp the driver arrived, helped me load everything into the back then off we drove along the A4 toward Amarante and Vila Nova. The hotel could not be more helpful in solving the train dilemma; the driver could not be more helpful in getting everything to Foz Coa.

The terrain was fabulous albeit really mountainous. Methinks the final long day into Porto will be a tough one. The land became very arid and was laden with fields of grapevines, almond trees and olive trees. Terraces climbed one side of every mountain, and down the other side. In time I could feel the car descending, and the temperature climbing from a low of 9 C up to 16 C when the road crossed the Douro just past Pocinho.

Initially with the train idea, the plan had been to cycle the 7 km to Vila Nova de Foz Côa. With the taxi, it was decided to come straight to the hostel to do bike assembly and testing before a walk to town for lunch and tomorrow's road snacks/energy.

One stupid glitch I had was when I just started threading the pedals into the cranks a little bit. Not thinking, I hopped onto the bike to test the gears only to have the pedal fall off when I applied full pressure. Down I crashed, banging my shin, elbow and ribs. Nothing seems broken, but everything does hurt. With that wonderful manoeuvre completed, the bikes were stored away and lunch was the next plan.

A mega-pile of bike parts, soon to be a couple of touring bikes, panniers and such, just outside the youth hostel.
- Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Portugal.

Room with a view from the Pousada de Juventude.
- Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Portugal.

Vila Nova de Foz Côa is situated right on a hilltop overlooking vineyards on all sides. Once at the centre of town a man approached asking if we were Canadian. He saw the maple leaf on my hat. Born in this village, he had moved to Canada as a youngster when his family emigrated. He comes back a couple of times per year to visit cousins and friends and now lives in Brantford. We asked him where to eat so he suggested a place the locals like called O Gato. For 18€ we enjoyed trout cooked in olive oil and garlic, potatoes, carrots and cabbage that were delicious, all with a 500 ml carafe of delicious red wine. To-die-for wine, and it was local.

I have never seen almond trees before, or at least have never noticed trees with almonds before. They are kind of fuzzy on the outside.
- Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Portugal.

With lunch done we went to a tiny grocery store to get snacks and drinks for the road tomorrow. As it turns out, the owner was born here, emigrated to Canada, then met a local here and has been here for 33 years. We also picked up a chocolate bar as an evening snack.

Every now and then I take a pic with Pookie, the litte mascot. It has been on a number of trips over the years, and Alex looks forward to seeing where he shows up.
- Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Portugal.

Not only almonds, olives and grapes, but lemon trees everywhere, too.
- Vila Nova de Foz Coa, Portugal.

Though tiny, the village church, with its painted wooden ceiling and intricately carved altars was beautiful, as were the town hall and other older buildings. Apparently some of the really fancy estates at the edge of town are retirees who had emigrated to Canada, but have returned here in their retirement years. I can see why. Though quiet, it is a beauty of a place.

The 'couvert' in Portugal usually arrives at your table before anything else, often consisting of olives, bread and possibly meats or cheeses.
- Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Portugal.

Evening sun over the hills outside the hostel's windows. Tomorrow the bikes meet those mountains.
- Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Portugal.

The return to the pousada was to prepare for the tour's first ride, tomorrow, which I now see will be a tough one. Pacing, rests, and regular sips of water or juice will be essential. Send best wishes, please!

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