September 23, 2018
Lienz - Cycle Traffic Jam on the Drau
Toblach to Lienz
What a wonderful day on the Drau. We left our charming little B and B in Toblach and picked up the bikes in their accommodation across the street. We really enjoyed the B and B Her-Bri. The proprietor spoke not a word of English and the pantomime was fun. The fact that the English word coffee and the German word kaffe are very similar is also a great thing.
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We ran into another biker while loading our trusty ponies. We had a great discussion about the merits of bike touring and what a great way it is to travel.
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We started down the Drau Radweg and seemed to start out with a large group who were travelling together. It didn’t take us long to realize this was Sunday on the Drau. There were cyclists of every age and ability out enjoying the great day. We worked our way past them only to stop for a photo and be passed. The best solution seemed to be to just dawdle and enjoy the fantastic sight of so many people having fun.
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We arrived in San Candido and there was a huge market going on. We dove right in looking for some fresh fruit to supplement our lunch. We found everything but food. If it exists, it was available at that market, unless it was something to eat. We loved San Candido. We loved Toblach too, but I think if we ever come this way again San Candido might get the nod as a place to stay.
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We managed to lose each other in San Candido. The CN was doing a navigational check in the shade and I told him I would wait in the market in the sun. I moved all of 5 m. I was looking around, enjoying the atmosphere and admiring some art work when it occurred to me Keith was taking a long time. Yup, he was gone. He had sailed right by me and was searching in the market. With only one phone now there was no calling or texting so it is back to the old fashioned method. We both went back to where we last saw each other. It is always amazing to us how easily it happens. We were on our way again in about five minutes.
Somewhere along the way we moved from Italy to Austria. We stopped at a great little cafe right on the bike path. The proprietor was interested in our trip. He told us that on summer days and spring and fall weekends he serves 5000 cyclists a day and not everyone stops of course. That gives you some idea of the popularity of this section of the bike path. Everyone cycles to Lienz and then hops the train back. How incredibly great is that? There is a rental company that shuttles the bikes, so you don’t even need to put them on the train.
Every cyclist of every age and ability was on the track. It was fantastic to see so many people out enjoying the sun and the outdoors. At one point two little girls were really holding us (and everyone else) up, weaving back and forth across the bike path talking and giggling and having so much fun it was just infectious. Their Dad was telling them in such clear Italian that even I understood him to MOVE OVER. In the time honoured way of children they completely tuned him out. It was absolutely the funniest moment of the day.
There was one heart stopping moment when a woman in front of us was checking her baby in the trailer her husband was towing. She rode right off the bike path and went straight over the handlebars, terrifying her husband and older child and Keith and I too. We came to a screeching halt prepared to dig out the first aid kit, but si, si, she was okay. What a relief.
We were in Lienz before we knew it, despite the dawdling, and what a great spot. We have had an explore of the town and a delicious dinner. Today the temperature topped out at 25 C and average for this time of year is 22 C. Tomorrow is supposed to be clear and sunny but a high of 14. What?? We don’t know what that is about, but it won’t be a problem. We might skip the gelato, that’s all.
And so to bed! What a fantastic day this has been. It was a downhill pull. We both agree it was the easiest 53 km we have ever done. All paved and from 1240 m to about 600 m and a beautiful ride. River to the left, Dolomites to the right 👍.
Here is the Relive: https://www.relive.cc/view/1860479857
Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 1,187 km (737 miles)
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6 years ago
San Candido looked to us as well as maybe a better place to stay. But for those of us involved in skiing Dobbiaco, like Cortina, is important. The daughter of one of our Deer Valley colleagues is on the U.S. Nordic ski team and has raced in Dobbiaco so we felt very luck to be able to spend some time there.
It is fun to share these adventures.
David and Maun
6 years ago
6 years ago