September 10, 2018
Levico Terme - It Wasn’t an Easy Ride!
Trento to Levico Ferme
We started the day with an outstanding breakfast at the Grand Hotel Trento. It was the full ten jammer. Unlimited cappuccinos for me and croissants and multiple jams to keep the CN happy, and everything in between. We fuelled up for what would be an unexpectedly challenging day.
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We started our ride at tourist information. We were concerned about the climb out of Trento as the Italy Cycling Guide website suggested that the first 15 km out of Trento on a narrow, shoulderless road was perhaps better avoided by taking a bike shuttle. We had a very helpful woman at TI and she said that while it was a climb, it shouldn’t be a problem. We both remembered the Martina to Nauders climb, where a shuttle is also recommended, and we loved it. We would have been so disappointed to see it from the seat of a bus. Well, trust us, we should have paid more attention to the cycling guide. The seat of the bus was looking very attractive to us before very long. The difference we think, is that Martina to Nauders was a long series of switchbacks in the countryside. This ride was pretty much straight up, and very urban, with all the navigating and traffic that entails. There were some rewarding views though.
We met another touring cyclist, a young man from Venice, at a wide spot in the road where we had stopped to rest. We had a great conversation. He was covered in sweat (so were we) and he laughed, gave that Italian shrug and declared all three of us crazy. But healthy, he added!
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Eventually we arrived in the valley. It was such an up and down journey to get there. We also were finally off the road. I loved that. We stopped for a picnic lunch will helped rejuvenate both of us.
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Once we were in the valley we were able to make some time, but the fact that our average speed today was only 8 km an hour tells you something about the terrain. There are beautiful lakes in the valley and it was such a pleasure to ride the flat bike path beside the first lake. Then we were back into apple orchards and vineyards, and actually making progress.
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6 years ago
We looked at the time and decided to book a hotel in nearby Levico Terme. We both felt ready for a break. What a wonderful hotel we are in. It is a bike hotel, and it almost feels like if you are not on a bike or motorcycle they would turn you away. There is a workshop with all the tools and bike stands, a bike washing station, compressed air, chain cleaner etc. It is all rather amazing. The lobby has large maps available of local bike routes on a large table, and books and maps and information. What really sealed the deal though, is the pool. It hit 30 degrees again today and a swim and nap in the chaise by the pool was just the ticket.
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We have had a wonderful dinner and are organized for tomorrow which should be a relatively flat ride through the valley. We’ll see. The one thing we know for sure is we should have read the Bike Italy Guide a little more carefully. We have now, and here is a quote.
“I would definitely consider the shuttle from Trento (you could also catch the train). The initial stretch out of Trento is on a very steep and narrow road. I’ve ridden it a couple of times, and the drivers have always been considerate, but even so you may find it a little stressful. The route out of Trento is one of the least satisfactory parts of the whole route and I would be tempted to avoid it.”
Hah! We second that. It is a very steep and narrow road, and the drivers were considerate, but it was a challenging climb.
Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 752 km (467 miles)
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6 years ago