Shönenwerd to Solothurn

April 30, 2019

A Magical Ride

Today was a magical ride. Every moment was just delicious. We met other bike tourers, the navigation was easy, the weather was if not perfect, pretty close, and dry. The scenery was superlative. At times we felt like we were riding through a fantasy of a Swiss travel experience. The beautiful towns, the amazing buildings, the friendly and welcoming people were over the top. We finished off in the heart of the baroque town of Solothurn in a huge beautiful room with friendly proprietors and the best restaurant in town. How lucky are we?

We left the Hotel Storchen in Schönenwerd with reluctance. We loved it too. Every employee in that hotel did their best for us. The young women in the restaurant were charming and I particularly loved the one who, at a loss for the vocabulary for hard boiled eggs, brightened right up and said Easter eggs! We got it. She was a delight.

Here is Keith with the proprietor of the hotel.

Keith and I ready to set out. We are both geared up for anything the weather can throw at us, so we both ended up peeling off layers throughout the day.

We had barely begun our ride when we came upon the most lovely family out for a bike tour adventure of their own, also on their way to Solothurn. We leap frogged each other for awhile, then lost sight of them as we stopped so often to take pictures. It was a picture taking kind of a ride.

Heading for the nuclear power plant. Now that doesn’t look like home.

The family that plays together stays together. Dad carried all the gear in the trailer. They were such a pleasure to meet.

We continue to follow the Mitteland Route, one of the Swiss National Routes. It is wonderful. Mostly car free or very low volume secondary routes, with a bike lane. Stress free riding. The scenery and the towns we rode through were outstanding.

The sky looks a little alarming here but we didn’t experience even a drop of rain. It was warmer too, topping out at 15 degrees. This is typical of the path along the river. Today was probably about 25% natural surface and 75% paved.

Here I am a little further along on a paved bikeway through farmland.

Then around a corner, into a little town, and this. Just gorgeous. There was a stunning ancient covered bridge in this town as well, and a fantastic pedestrian area.

As we were leaving this charming place I glanced right and saw this. Sadly, both out of the playoffs.

I just love the pedestrian areas in Europe. We went through several of these today.

We were pedaling alongside the Aare River for much of the day. We would be riding along and suddenly either riding through an amazing spot, or admiring it from our side of the river.

Look at the size of that castle. At this point I was feeling like I was in fantasy land.

Of course, to disabuse me of the fantasy land idea, very shortly we rode by this. The scale of this operation was incredible and we watched for several minutes. All of this was happening, castles and quarries, off a car free bike path.

Then we rode through a forested area and felt like we were in the wilderness. The number of birds singing was remarkable. We decided to sit on some logs and enjoy our picnic lunch. We met a woman walking her dog and we discussed the birds and the calm of this particular spot. Then she took us around the corner to see the beehives. A wonderful encounter and she was so kind.

Look at all those busy bees. I stayed well back and put my hood up for protection. The volume of the buzzing was incredible.

The shed was all hives as well, with multiple places for the bees to go in and out, all a different bright colour, the better to find your place and not your neighbour bee’s home I presume.

Then we had another wonderful encounter. Today wasn’t just about the spectacular scenery and towns, it was equally about the people. We stopped to admire the most beautiful horse and met the woman who was training him. She was heading to Bern shortly for a Wild West Show, with a Wild Bill Hickock show she would be riding in and many other things too numerous to mention here. If we get to Bern in time we would love to go. She showed us pictures and it looked amazing. She was so generous with her time and knowledge and her horses were so beautiful.

We could have watched this fellow all day.

Aren’t they both beautiful? Such a lovely person and so passionate about her horses and having so much fun with it too.

Then there were more trail side companions, more stunning scenery and old Swiss buildings. Here is a sample. It was a beautiful, beautiful ride.

This guy had the shortest legs and sweetest face you can imagine.

Those horns look down right uncomfortable to me.

Yup, this is really what it was like. Just sweet, sweet riding.

Soon we were coming in to Solothurn which is billed as Switzerland’s most beautiful baroque city. It does not disappoint. We have an absolute palace of a room in the Zunthaus zu Wirthen, right in the heart of the old town.

Once in the room, Keith had a nap while I wandered the old town taking in the architecture. I came back after an hour and a half or so to find him still asleep. I woke him up and we went for a short walk followed by a fabulous dinner. Over dinner we discussed the best thing to do. He had felt really tired the last 10 km today. We are in a beautiful place and it didn’t take long to decide the best course of action is to stay another night to hopefully get him over this bug. He fell asleep as soon as we were back in the room, and is sleeping still, so I think that tells me it was the right decision, and it wasn’t a difficult one. This is an amazing place to enjoy for another day.

https://www.relive.cc/view/2330375524

Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 131 km (81 miles)

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Anne MathersWhat a great collection of photos today...I love the photogrid feature. Glad you’re feeling a little better and taking it slow to start. What’s the hurry in such a beautiful place!
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5 years ago

Kathleen ClassenI got the idea from the Bartletts. I am really not sure about how to edit it but I am learning! It is a nice way to group a series of photos...church spires, appealing animals, whatever.

Solothurn is stunning. I am about to go explore on my own as Keith works on good health in our palatial room. It is only a cold, but a nasty one and the sooner he is rid of it the better.
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5 years ago

Rachael AndersonI’m glad you could bicycle today. It looks like a great ride. I hope Keith can knock his cold soon. It’s really the pits to start a trip with a cold.
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5 years ago

Kathleen ClassenWe rode today, only 52 km to Erlach, an almost completely flat route and we both still felt not up to our usual prime time selves. I felt I was 80 or 90% until I hopped on the bike. He reminded me I am not completely over it either. Keith has made a firm move in the positive direction and looks and sounds so much better. Our stay in Solothurn did him good. We are in a funky little B and B in Erlach and about to go for a walk. It rained the last hour or so of the ride. Now the sun is shining. Spring weather 😀.
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5 years ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesYour various references to Keith being asleep as you write the blog reveal a gentle love that many readers may not pick up on. But I have written the same kind of lines more than once, and I know the brief glance over to the sleeping, sick or exhausted partner. Reporting to the readership that they seem to be resting well is comforting as you sit essentially alone with your keyboard.
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3 years ago