Mirmande to St. Paul Trois Chateaux

May 19, 2019

Riding the Rhône

We rolled down the Rhône today and it felt like a rest day. A virtually flat ride. It was a very straightforward ride in the beginning, there was a tiny bit of a surprise in the middle, and some great D Road riding at the end.

Before I begin today I have to include a few pictures from last night’s memorable dinner. We had such a wonderful time and really took our time. Everything was delicious and our server was great. Incidentally, he jogged by us on the road this morning and gave us a friendly wave.

The amuse bouche. Spicy Corsican sausage with a beet purée.

Keith’s starter, an asparagus tarte with smoked salmon.

And mine, gazpacho with local chèvre. It was amazing.

Keith’s main, which was veal with the most amazing potatoes. He loved it.

And mine, tuna, perfectly done with house made pasta. I loved it.

My dessert. I don’t know how to describe it but it was so delicious.

Keith’s tiramisu didn’t make the cut for a picture because it looked so good and was so good it was half gone before he remembered! The forks went from plate to plate as we each tried each other’s food and we had a fabulous time. We rounded it off with a bottle of local red.

Since I seem to be developing a theme here, let’s move on to breakfast. We came down to breakfast to discover our table groaning with a feast just for us.

Cheese, charcuterie and coffee were about to arrive.

I am dipping into house made yogurt here. So good. We are running out of table room.

We were away at 10:45. Ridiculous we know, but Keith had to wake me up at 8:45 AM. I couldn’t believe it when he told me the time. It started to drizzle just as we left. We had seen the forecast and I was layered up. Within fifteen minutes we had to stop so I could take a few things off. It was still sprinkling but it wasn’t cold. It was actually very pleasant riding conditions and a beautiful ride. We went through cherry orchards, vineyards and field after field of lavender. Keith was trying a turn by turn feature on his Guru app and we just rolled along, commenting on how well it worked. I was happy because we had signage so both the GPS and the GTW were in sync. It was a fantastic morning. Riding on the flat felt like a rest day, it really did.

Then we arrived in Montélimar, the nougat capital of the world. Who knew? Not us, but fortunately we have the Grampies looking after us and Steve sent us straight to Suprem’ Nougat.

What a spot! Free samples too. We didn’t even know we liked nougat. We do! We most assuredly do.

So much choice, so much variety. The caramel with nuts was our favourite.

I am trying to hide the embarrassingly large bag of nougat I am holding.

We left Montélimar and went over a lock the likes of which we have never seen before. We were fortunate enough to arrive while it was operating and it was an impressive machine. I have tried to find more information about it online because I am curious why it was designed this way.

The unusual lock. The cylinder goes up and down...or we assume it does. We only saw it go down.

These men kindly explained how it functions to me...in clear and rapid fire French.

Then it was lunch time ( food again) and while we were enjoying our picnic the light rain stopped and that was it for the day. We continued to follow the ViaRhona, Keith’s app was brilliant at the turn by turn directions.

My relaxing and waiting for the chief photographer/navigator/supporter pose. I enjoy these moments when I can really look around.

Then the less straightforward part of the day began. We were routed onto what Keith and I call French gravel. So much for those brilliant GPS suggestions. Somewhere in France someone came up with the idea that throwing small boulders on a bike route was an inspired idea. We started down the route, and once a certain distance along we decided to carry on to the nearest road, rather than turn around. We ended up on the French gravel long enough that I was concerned my fillings would fall out it is such a jarring surface to ride on. We couldn’t get to the D road because we had the elevated train tracks between us and the road. Eventually of course, we made it, and asphalt has never seemed so smooth.

After some deluxe road riding, wide shoulder, low traffic, new surface bliss, we arrived in St. Paul Trois Chateaux. We can’t tell you much about the place because it is a Sunday in France and everything is closed. It is deader than a doornail. About the only thing open was the gas station and coin operated car wash. We took full advantage. Our tires were still a mess from the French gravel and so were the bikes.

Holy bicycle Batman! Look what pulled into the gas station!

We are settled into a small apartment with a bike tourer’s dream. A washing machine. We have taken full advantage. We went to the local wine bar for a wine tasting and to buy a bottle. We had a great visit with the sommelier, a lovely young woman.

Look who we missed...by seven years. The tour started here in 2012. That’s Bradley Wiggins in the yellow jersey. Andrè Greipel won the stage which finished in Cap d’Agde, 217 km later.

They had beer too. Hey Markus, here’s looking at you 😀.

Tomorrow, Provence. The chief accommodation booker is looking at that now. Another great day, French gravel and all. I am having a nougat to celebrate.

Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 975 km (605 miles)

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Tricia GrahamReading your journal is a joy for me each morning over my breakfast. You are always so positive and the delight you have in your journey, no matter what it throws at you, shines through. It sets me up for a happy day.
Stay safe
Tricia
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5 years ago

Kathleen ClassenThanks so much Tricia. It is such an amazing way to travel isn’t it? We are heading south into Provence today, and really excited. We have to find breakfast first. Our lovely accommodation doesn’t do breakfast. We should have saved some from yesterday!! Best breakfast of the trip.
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5 years ago