May 3, 2019
Erlach to Onnens
Lakeshore Ride and Up Into the Vineyards
What a wonderful day today was. It started at our wee B and B in Erlach where we discovered we weren’t the only guests. There was a couple from Holland and they were just so special to meet. Travelling certainly reinforces for us that there are so many wonderful people in this world. We exchanged stories and email addresses and headed out. We completely forgot to take a picture.
The weather forecast was a little grim, and rain was to start in the afternoon so we pointed the bikes towards Neuchâtel and hoped for the best. We planned a short, flattish day given the weather forecast and our improving, but not perfect health. I started the day with my booties and rainpants on, ready for anything. I have decided this is key to a dry day, as not only was there no rain, we had brilliant sunshine all afternoon.
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There were so many beautiful things this morning. Several of our favourites, flowers, boats, birds and Neuchâtel oh my! What a spectacular place that is. The ride was flat and along Lake Neuchâtel at this point.
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We found a waterfront bistro and stopped for cappuccinos and a muffin. It was a lovely spot and the muffin was delicious. Pretty much a cake actually, disguised as a muffin. Then we continued rolling along the flat. We found it interesting that along the lake there were clouds of black insects that were impossible to avoid. Bigger than the clouds of teeny gnats we encountered in Italy in the fall, and we were trying to figure out what they were. At first we thought mosquitoes, but after much study we decided not. They were big enough that when we rode through them they pinged off our helmets in quite a rat-a-tat way. I actually pulled my buff right up over my mouth and nose so I didn’t inhale any. As soon as we moved even 100 meters away from the lake they were gone.
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Then suddenly, boom, we were in the vineyards. Keith and I love riding in the vineyards. They look so different at this time of year, just starting to leaf out, rather than loaded with grapes, but beautiful none the less. We were delighted.
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Then, with the euphoria of riding through the vines, I almost didn’t realize instead of staying by the lake on a lovely flat bike path we were headed up. I hadn’t realized this was going to happen. The chief navigator was right on top of things though. At one point we stopped briefly to admire the lake from above and had the first amazing encounter with a kind motorist trying to help two cyclists who didn’t need any help. We almost felt guilty that we were fine, he wanted so badly to help us. It was at this point too that we decided hills are so totally worth it. It was just so gorgeous.
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The sun came out. It was just a beautiful day from then on. We spun through vineyards, forest, small and beautiful villages. It was just so darn awesome it is hard to describe. At one point, in a forested area we came around a curve and there was a castle that was just jaw dropping. We saw a couple walking their dogs and had a heart warming frenglish conversation about the castle. Bike touring at its best.
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At this point I became focused upon finding the perfect lunch spot. Success came in a small village overlooking the lake, a marina and a construction site.
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We had a second encounter with the nicest people when Keith stopped to wait for me at the top of a hill. We were once more having a chat and admiring the scenery when a car pulled over to make sure we were fine. People are really so kind. From there we had a beautiful ride to tiny Onnens. No bus tour has ever stopped here we are sure as we are in the only hotel in town. It is a beautiful spot and we went for a walk to admire it and then to the restaurant in the hotel where we had an amazing dinner.
Tomorrow, another shortish day. We think it is the best idea until we are firing on all cylinders. We plan on stopping a few km west of Lausanne.
Today's ride: 52 km (32 miles)
Total: 235 km (146 miles)
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