Bonnieux, Lacoste, Ménerbes

May 27, 2019

They Weren’t Thinking of Cyclists When They Built These Hillside Towns

What a beautiful cycle we had today. The weather was bluebird perfect and the legs were rested. We relaxed over our seven jammer breakfast, I took full advantage of the cappuccino machine, and while we missed our goal of 9:30, we were on the road by 9:45. That is pretty good for us.

First up was a 4.5 km downhill swoop. In Provence, what goes down must go up, so we knew what to expect. Part of the reason for the delay in departure was a chat I had with a couple from Vancouver. They told us not to miss Pont Julien. We were on Chemin Pont Julien, we could see the signs, so it seemed pretty much a lock that we would see the bridge.

We came across the Route de Calavon at the foot of the hill. We were able to follow it for a short while before we headed left and up into Bonnieux. This is the same voie verte we followed through Apt before we turned off at Roussillon. It is 37 km in length, and part of the Eurovelo 8 route. The way we came into Roussillon was fine...quiet D roads, but had we known we could have followed the Route de Calavon all the way to the foot of the hill and zipped up that way. Next time.

Bonnieux was beautiful. We saw many, many cyclists, most in groups, we presume as part of tours, given the matching jerseys. We explored the town, both on the bikes and on foot, and had lunch at a cute cafe. I was finding it hot...I am still wearing long sleeves to protect my arms.

Trying to find a place to lock the bikes.

We met a lovely couple from England, Colin and Sally, over lunch. It was great to meet them and chat about travel, Provence and the challenges of long haul flights.

Colin, Sally and I. They were a delight to meet.

After lunch we decided to go to Tourist Information to find out about the elusive Pont Julien. We wanted to know if it was worth the trip to see. After two full circuits of the town, following the TI signs, we gave up. TI was more elusive than the bridge. The Chief Navigator homed in on the bridge on his Guru app and down we went...to discover we had already crossed the bridge on our way to Bonnieux. We really laughed. It is old, it is Roman, but it sure isn’t the Pont de Gard. We ended up crossing it four times today. It is part of the Calavon Greenway.

Next up, and I do mean up, was Lacoste. A tiny place, and the castle is the main event. Pierre Cardin has renovated the castle as his home. This was the Marquis de Sade’s castle. It is one of several of Pierre Cardin’s homes I would imagine. His profile is around the front door (very large door at the end of a drawbridge) in case you are looking for decorating ideas. Unfortunately Keith didn’t take a picture. He was too busy taking pictures of all the other spectacular art.

We were surprised to find a very large group of motorcyclists at the top. They seemed to be part of a tour. They had a sag wagon. A large sag wagon. Some of the motorcycles were stunners. Then there was a small drama.

This guy was horsing around and suddenly he was on the ground. It was alarming to see but he was fine. It took several people to get his bike back up.

Note to self: my new bike helmet should match my bike. Isn’t this motorcycle a beauty? There were many like this.

On the way down Keith spotted this in an opening on a lower level of the castle. To give you an idea of the scale, I thought it was a horse trailer at first (sorry Pierre).

Then it was down, and up to Ménerbes. Anyone who has read the Peter Mayle books knows of Ménerbes. It was just wonderful. We had a gelato stop here and met Susan who is originally from Toronto and runs cycle tours. Check them out at: http://www.frenchcyclingholidays.com/ She was with a group of road cyclists who were in Provence to celebrate their 50th birthdays. What a great way to do it. They are finishing their trip with Mt. Ventoux. We had a great visit with her and cheered the Raptors on collectively.

Then it was down and across the Pont Julien for the fourth time. We stopped at a roadside stand for cherries and strawberries and turned the bikes up the hill to Roussillon and our balcony overlooking the pool. We stopped in town for some cheese, a baguette, olives, tomatoes and the all important bottle of wine and ate a picnic dinner poolside. Keith had a post ride swim, we are relaxed and happy and he is plotting our next move while I write the blog. We saw so many people today with challenges that would make it impossible to do what we are doing. We are so grateful we can both do this, and both love doing it.

Ken G. we hit the jackpot at the roadside stand. These need a little (actually a lot) of TLC.

It is going to be hard to leave Roussillon in the morning. It is a remarkable place.

https://www.relive.cc/view/2401626961

Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 1,347 km (836 miles)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesGreat coverage of these favourite places!

Dodie is suggesting you look for a lighter weight, more open, long sleeve - for the sun protection with less warmth.
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5 years ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Steve Miller/GrampiesWe have just had another dinner picnic as we find French dining too late for us. We were talking about you two. Why? Because we almost finished the last piece of Suprem’ Nougat for our dessert. This chunk is caramel, and we have just enough left for lunch tomorrow. Thanks again for the tip.

I like Dodie’s idea. True confessions, I burnt my arms so badly they blistered. I have very sensitive skin. I was wearing sunscreen and it has been decades since this has happened so while I have theories as to what went wrong I am just not sure, but it does mean long sleeves for a bit longer.
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5 years ago