Day 8: Madrid to Plasencia - Grampies Go Valencia to Leipzig, Spring 2025 - CycleBlaze

February 25, 2025

Day 8: Madrid to Plasencia

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With the help of the GPS Dodie unerringly guided us back to the Atocha station from which we had disembarked in Madrid yesterday. 

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It had been a bit of a challenge yesterday to find our way out of the station, so I rather anticipated some casting about to find our way to the proper track for our trip now to Plasencia. I must admit I was glad when as usual Dodie undertook to ask the various Renfe staffers about where we should go. Standing back a bit, I am a student of the facial expressions and head nods, as our tickets (printed at home by me without really knowing what I was doing) got scanned and then the workers pointed this way and that, saying who knows what to Dodie. Usually this works out, but this time we were walking into a whole nest of challenges. I won't try to accurately trace all the exact sordid details, but just to give the flavour.

The first worker consulted was presiding over a "Media Distancia Check In" area. Beyond her gate was a down escalator and some steep steps. Dodie of course questioned how we were supposed to take the loaded bikes on that. So we got directed over to somewhere and onto an elevator that went up and not down, to some other area, that was not what we needed. Back where we started we were then told we would just have to go down the stairs, to get to the track. But which track did we need?

Aha, the familiar issue of which track! I slowly learned (by repeated asking) that the track would be revealed on the big screen, out somewhere, 5 minutes (yes, 5 minutes!) before departure time. I spent some time staring at this screen, out somewhere, to find the track for our 10:55 departure. Here, you can  stare at it for a bit too:

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I myself started my staring career at 10:07, until I learned that there was no use, until 10:50.

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I went back to where Dodie was, just inside the Media Distancia check in gate. The lady guarding that gate was getting used to me going back and forth, so I didn't have to keep showing my ticket. We put in some time staring at the steps and the escalator. Like this:

Choose your poison!
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Keith ClassenGood call. Avoid escalators with loaded bikes would be my recommendation based on personal experience. I may have been the one relating a story of a friend who had a major spill with a loaded ebike going up an escalator - fortunately he did live to ride again!
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1 month ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Keith ClassenYes, I remember now! I just came from looking at the steep marble stairs to get our bikes down this morning. Wish me luck.
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1 month ago

Somebody (on Cycleblaze, I think) had mentioned flying head over heels down an escalator with a heavy ebike, so I thought I would give that a miss. Instead, we took off all the packs, and I carried the bikes down. At the bottom of the steps was a waiting room, and hidden in there was a screen that would also report the track number, 5 minutes before.

At this level there were various exits, with track number signs. Once we would know the number we would obviously follow its sign. But what challenges would lie beyond the sign? I undertook to go see, taking track 8 as a demo.  What I found was, you guessed it, more steps and an escalator, except the steps were narrower - bad for my rather sideways bike carrying style.  I went down those steps to see what else would be ahead, and found the actual track! But I also spied a nearby elevator. Could that be our way down? I got on the elevator, and got spat out .. up, somewhere.  Although an elevator does not cover much (or any) horizontal distance, I had no idea where I was. So I wisely got back in, and went down again. But where I got  out, I now simply could not recognize the route I had taken to reach the elevator in the first place. I was completely and totally lost, and well aware that the clock was now rapidly counting down to 10:55!

I doubled or tripled my pace, and began scouting around. I asked a worker and got directed way down somewhere. I redoubled my pace. Eventually I stumbled out to where that lady was tending the Media Distancia check in. I approached it from the opposite direction that I had left the general area in. The lady, of course, still recognized me. I went down the stairs and found Dodie not quite at the bikes but peering off in the direction I had left in. But here I was arriving from behind her - how did I manage that?

No time to puzzle that out, because now the little screen in the waiting room revealed our track - 4!  So we began to move our bikes and all our bags - now off the bikes - toward 4, while dodging a crowd of people going in the same direction.

A member of that crowd materialized and began to ask me some of the "Usual Questions" (UQ). Where were we from and were we headed to Santiago de Compostella? Being naturally good natured, and Canadian to boot, I tried to answer, all the time struggling with the bikes and bags. I bumped one bike down the steps, using both brakes to (barely) keep from going flying. But behind me, Dodie turned lemons into lemonade by recruiting the UQ man to bring the next bike. This really saved the day!

The UQ man, made the difference.
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Scott AndersonLucky, but normal in our experience. There always seems to be someone there willing to help out.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Scott AndersonTrue, but until they appear it can be really stressful.
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We found the  carriage that had the level entrance, and secured the bikes against one wall, while dumping the bags somewhere opposite. Things were now looking pretty good!

The bikes were now snug on the train!
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That was, until a conductor came along. The bikes could not stay there, he claimed. They needed to go up some steps into the next car and to hang from hooks. We have faced down many a conductor with a story like this in the past. But this one was really insistent. In the the negotiations that followed, the bikes would move up the steps, but would avoid "the hook".

The conductor wanted the bikes here.
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The bikes were now farther from where we could keep an eye on them, but what the hell. But the result was that only half way through the trip we went to have a check on them. This is what we found:

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Michael HutchingI always throw a bungee cord around our bikes- there’s usually something to hook them to- never failed yet.
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1 month ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Michael HutchingYeah, we usually have some sort of strap/bungee but this time did not.
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One pedal was through the spokes of the other bike's wheel, so it took careful lifting to avoid damage. This could have been avoided by using those wire cable things that can be seen on the right. However they not only needed a euro to operate but I could not figure them out!

We arrived at Plasencia, having begun to get our bikes down the steps, oriented correctly to exit, and the bags assembled, at Montfregue, the stop before. We were ejected onto the platform, concluding the saga that had started with the page "The Fingers Tremble and the Memory Fails", written fourteen blog days earlier.

We were glad to finally be on our own four wheels, but it was a bit shocking to find that after the bike lanes of Valencia and the quiet barrios of Madrid, we were  into some fairly active traffic.

Plasencia - not so restful?
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This, I guess, was the low point of the story, but things soon looked up.  We had not cycled far when we looked up to see that Plasencia is actually a walled city, and inside that wall are the beautiful and restful things we search for .

Looking up.
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Part of the cathedral.
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A one legged White Stork!
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Once we had crossed into the walled city, it was beauty and quaint views everywhere:

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A typical street
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A market was finishing up in the main square.
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Great architectural compositions
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At the cathedral
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This poster reminds that 2025 is a pilgrimage "Jubilee year". Jubilee years are declared every 25 years. The Pope has named this the Jubilee of Hope: "We must fan the flame of hope that has been given us, and help everyone to gain new strength and certainty by looking to the future with an open spirit, a trusting heart and far-sighted vision." And if we actually had any sins (!) we could get them washed away more easily this year than in others!
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Karen PoretNow the Jubilee year cathedrals are praying for the Pope..
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretWe hope he makes it to the end of March. He has always had a bad or missing lung.
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The Plasencia cathedral.
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The façade has detailed carving
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Including this scary image
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And these fat angels.
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The town was just so pleasant, with nice building arrangements to be seen all around:

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I was waiting to shoot this for that guy by the wall to move.
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But he turned out to be made of bronze - a commemoration of a folklorist and musical director at the cathedral.
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Here are some more views of the town.

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And some more storks. The train has certainly taken us into stork territory. This brings our 2025 bird count to 96.
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Dodie particularly liked these balconies. She likes all balconies.
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My favourite shot of all from today.
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It took a fair bit of time sitting on the train to Plasencia, for our pulse rates to return to normal. And the walled Plasencia town was very soothing. So now we will rest up, to begin our actual cycle tour tomorrow. This cat has the right idea:

Loose translation: I sleep like a log.
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Today's ride: 5 km (3 miles)
Total: 77 km (48 miles)

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Scott AndersonWell done. I’ll quit worrying about you now.
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1 month ago
Suzanne GibsonThat's why we don't take trains any more! But you survived - bravo!
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1 month ago
Tricia GrahamWe just have to do rides that avoid trains
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1 month ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Scott AndersonDon't worry, be happy. You and us both. Monfrague tomorrow!
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1 month ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Suzanne GibsonThis trip we unfortunately had little choice, but in general we try to avoid trains also.
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1 month ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Tricia GrahamWe do try to avoid, or at least minimize, trains but the only way to get us and our bikes to where we wanted to be was this.
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1 month ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesMonfrague!! That’s so wonderful. Does the Silver Route go that way, or are you just bird-brained now? And where are you staying tomorrow night?
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1 month ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Scott AndersonWe are not exactly following the Silver Route, just loosely, so Montfrague seemed an obvious slight detour, especially after reading your blog entry for that day. We are staying in (near) Torrejon El Rubio in the only available accommodation found when we made our reservations. Keen anticipation here.
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1 month ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesAt the hospedaria? Great place to stay, should be a great day ahead all the way around. There are a few steep dips and rises, but nothing too significant.
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1 month ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Scott AndersonThink it might be a different place. Electric assist should smooth out the undulations.
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1 month ago