Day 53: Sete to Le Grau du Roi

April 11, 2025

Heart

Comment

The sun set for us out the sea sprayed window of the ferry, marking the end of our wonderful foray into Mallorca. We plan to return, most likely in Fall 2026.

We got off the boat with a minimum of fuss, although at first the door to let us onto the car deck would not open. Unlike at Valencia or even Palma, the ferry dock area of Sete was not horrible, and we soon were passing through pleasant harbor town scenery.

I still had the camera set to trey for a dramatic sunset, so it did noit do a great job with this superyacht, which was the first thing we saw off the ferry. We can say that it is the Carpathia VII, owned by billionaire Ruben Chernajovsky. Despite his name, he is Argentinain born. The boat is said to be worth $186 million, and has an annual operating cost of $26. It accommodates, get this, only 12 people.

This canal at Sete ran for some distance. It could be part of the Sete to Rhone canal.

We see that we are not only on EV 8 but also the Via Rhona, which is really at the end of its rope, way out here.

Trying to follow EV 8 we found our first French Route Barrée. And of course, this was no real concern for a bicycle.

Our first "Le Boat". Travel on the French canal network with these boats seems to remain popular.

We have been sensitive to tire damage since our incident coming in to Granada. But how about this one!

There is a rather strange arrangement in this area, in which a canal runs through the lagoon. A path runs beside the canal, through the lagoon, and this forms the shortest route through the area. The first time we came through here, some years ago and from the other end, we got onto the path through the grounds of the Cathedral of Maguelone, near Palavas-les-Flots. It was touch and go, involving a little bridge and a gate, I recall. But another time (or the same time?) we go onto what looked like the path - it certainly had water all around it - but this petered out into just sand dune after some km. We ended up camping on the dune (actually on the deck of a closed beach restaurant on the dune) and having quite a magical time of it.

This time we see that the region has mapped out and developed a bike route, and we are following that, rather than rolling dice with the Cathedral. The photo below shows the path we are not taking.

Especially since we landed in France today, our Canadian flags have attracted a lot of attention. Normally in France we are endearingly referred to as "Nos cousins Canadiens", and that has continued, but now Canada! is often shouted out, sometimes with a clenched fist, or just a thumbs up. We counted about 20 instances today of interactions like that.

The folks below had friends from Toronto, and wanted to talk. We not only talked about Canada but also cycling. As you see, they have been to the Stelvio pass.

They will send our photo to their friends in Toronto.

The lady's light fast looking bike actually has e-assist. It's hard to spot.

Another view of the canal and path through the lagoon.

This little "village" sits on a piece of sand dune.

The bikeway provided as alternative to the canal path is very good.

Around 11:30 we passed through a village, and we interested in buying stamps at La Poste. The office was closed, and I wondered what on earth the excuse could be, on a Friday morning. Answer: why would we open before 1:30? We need our beauty sleep, you know!

Nearby, in one of those "Canada" interactions, we overheard a man saying to his daughter "Look, that's the Canadian flag". We took the opportunity to give a Canadian flag pin to the little girl.

At lunchtime we stopped at the central square of the little town of Mireval, where we went into our first French bakery. We got leek quiche, and a tartelette made with pine nuts. This is what my half looked like:

A very small market was going on as well.

We continued through pleasant fields, at first, and then wetlands rich in Flamingos, Avocets, Stilts, Shelducks, and the like.

Ah yes, the Cathedral, but not this time.

We are entering the Camargue. This is the Camargue cross, that will soon be ubiquitous.

Wetlands, with a poster showing the birds and plants we could find.

This is called the Ballestras fort. It was build as a watchtower in 1744. They were watching for the ...English.

We now entered the orbit of the "Grand Motte", an architecturally unique city and main population centre in the region. A "motte" is a hill or dune, and hereabouts are many sand dunes. They make up a terrific long sand beach. There are parking lots all along the beach front, and beach access through sequentially numbered paths. I always choose one and go for a look at the beach. This time it was number 57:

The beach access leads through the dune. The fences keep people off, and help to control movement of the dunes through drifting.

Nice beach, with dune control fencing, and La Grand Motte in the distance.

La Grand Motte is an avant-garde architectural initiative, built in the 1960's and 70's. It recalls for us a bit of Expo 67 in Montreal, and also the much more recent City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia. The beach side neighbourhood we passed through was from 1974. The designs are similar, but each is unique. We took the beach front way, rather than go by downtown, but we ended up having to walk a certain amount through the crowds of holiday makers.

For what it's worth, this Ferris wheel is run by 80 square meters of solar panels.

We carried on through the Grand Motte area and toward Le Grau du Roi. I remember Le Grau for its hotel lined harbour channel - very picturesque. But this time we are not in a channel hotel, but rather one with a major claim to fame - it's beside a Super U supermarket. After we dropped our stuff at the hotel (Hotel Le Maray) Dodie suggested we both go to the supermarket. This is a mistake that Dodie knows well, as I will always put unnecessary stuff in the cart. Even I will concede that the cost of this trip (and weight of stuff to carry) was double, vs. had I stayed at the hotel. But, hey look at this:

Tomorrow - the Camargue!

p.s. Some of the birds we say today:

Jackdaws! We were actually hoping for Crows since strangely we do not have Crows yet in our 2025 count.

Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 1,560 km (969 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	5
Comment on this entry	Comment	1

Bob KoreisLa Grande Motte definitely has the feel of landlocked cruise ships.
Reply to this comment
5 days ago