Day 9: To Covington

September 17, 2014

I got up at 7:30 but after a long breakfast at the cafe I didn't get on the road until 9:30. Once again I stay on US 220 all day. Today has a net descent of 1650 feet so hopefully it won't be too grueling.

US 220 along the tiny Jackson river, a tributary of the James river.

The first 10 miles were easy, mostly downhill on US 220 south in a farm valley along the tiny Jackson river, a tributary of the James river.

Nearly every barn is painted red and has a storage silo.

The hills resume about as I enter George Washington National Forest. This is the first of several National Forests I will pedal through during this tour. I'm more familiar with the western National Forests which have been government-owned since before it was possible to log them. The eastern National Forests were once private land that was clear cut. Afterwards the government bought the land on the cheap and grew a new forest. No old-growth to fight over here!

The first of 7 National Forests I will pedal through during this tour.

The trend was definitely uphill, ultimately climbing to Wilson Mountain summit, 2700 feet elevation. Most of the day was spent above 2000 feet elevation.

When I entered Bath county the farms suddenly changed to houses. Noticeably more upscale than the previous counties. Traffic started to increase as well, with more luxury cars and fewer farm trucks.

I had lunch at a cafe in the middle of nowhere 4 miles north of Warm Springs, then continued through Warm Springs to the larger community of Hot Springs which is anchored by a famous resort called The Homestead. More like a luxury golf resort than a homestead. CEO's and heads of state stay here. Don't ask how much it costs.

Golf course at the Homestead resort. Sam Snead's former home.

I took a 1 mile detour over a steep hill to see the actual hotel building. It's a national historic landmark. The first lodge on the site was built in 1766. The current building dates from 1888-1892. It's changed hands many times. Since 2013 the name is The Omni Homestead Resort.

The Homestead resort in Hot Springs, Virginia.

The Homestead has "body temperature" warm springs that flow 1.7 million gallons per day. The Jefferson Pool was built in 1761 and is the oldest spa structure in the United States. Originally made famous when Thomas Jefferson was cured of rheumatism during a 22 day visit in 1818.

I passed a couple more golf courses on my way out of town. The area has an old money feel. Many of the houses were built in the early 20th century. A few in the 19th century. And at least one in the 18th century!

Oldest surviving house in Bath county, Virginia. Built in 1780. Note the Dado joints. Probably no nails.

Traffic increased significantly starting in Warm Springs when I crossed highway 39. The road still has no shoulder, though.

The road continues to climb steep rolling hills. Near the afternoon's major summit the road passes Falling Spring Falls. The waterfall is about 100 feet from the highway.

80 foot Falling Spring falls is visible from US 220.

I'm now in Allegany county. Still on the edge of the Allegheny mountains, but this county spells it differently and brands themselves the "Allegany Highlands".

A few miles later was a 5 mile, 1200 foot descent to Covington. With rush hour traffic, going into the low evening sun.

"Allegany" mountains looking into the low sun.

The main feature of Covington is the paper mill in the middle of town. I could smell it 9 miles from town. With 6000 people it's a regional town, but gritty and charm-free.

I went downtown and got a $52 room at Budget Motel. The room was okay, but downtown is dead, a casualty of the WalMart across town next to I-64. Nothing downtown except law offices and empty storefronts. I had to pedal 1.5 miles away to Long John Silver, the closest restaurant.

Coming into Covington I have a view of the giant paper mill in the *middle* of town.

After passing through the rare (in this region) opulence of Bath County, the city of Covington is a bit of a shock. For the first time on this tour it really looks like stereotypical Appalachia, with poverty and dirty industries like paper and coal. I will see a few more crappy Appalachian towns in the next week.

Downtown Covington is mostly law offices and empty storefronts.

Despite the net descent today was a difficult day. Lots of climbing, many 8-10% grades. I had a gentle tailwind, though. The weather was mostly cloudy with a high in the 60's. The entire tour has been mostly cloudy so far.

Today was strenuous but the scenery was outstanding. I like the route but can't climb this much every day.

Distance: 62 mi. (99 km)
Climbing: 3484 ft. (1055 m)
Average Speed: 10 mph (16 km/h)

Today's ride: 62 miles (100 km)
Total: 427 miles (687 km)

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