Day 27: To Van Buren

October 5, 2014

In the morning I went to have breakfast at the only place in town that's open. Swifty's Cafe. Unfortunately it was extremely smoky. A small crowded place with several smokers. Where I live it has been illegal to smoke in restaurants for a VERY long time. Apparently Missouri has exceptions for small restaurants. The only law they violated was not posting a sign at the door warning that they don't have a non-smoking section. I was not feeling well when I got on the road after breakfast. It has been more than 20 years since I had no choice but to eat in a smoky restaurant.

Navigation is complicated today, but that means I'm on no-traffic back roads most of the time. First, out of Wappapello going west on KK. Then north on W. Then west on MO 49 to Williamsville. The roads are mostly forested rolling hills, and I'm starting to see more and more pine trees.

Then more back roads. A west to Ellsinore. N west to US 60. The last 12 miles are on busy US 60, a road that I will unfortunately see a lot of in the next couple days. At least it has a wide paved shoulder and is very well graded. I originally planned to stay north of US 60 but that route is longer, has more climbing, and fewer lodging options.

I'm now getting into the edge of the Ozark plateau. One of the main features is the crystal clear spring fed rivers. Today I stopped to see 2 springs in Mark Twain National Forest.

Clear river. A sign I'm entering the Ozark plateau.

Markham spring forms a 5-acre lake, the source of a good sized creek that flows through lush forest. Crystal clear water with a sandy bottom. A very user-friendly recreation area.

Creek that originates at Markham spring.

Today I passed another landmark. After passing giant piles of quarter-round log shavings, I saw the Royal Oak charcoal factory. It looks like any other wood products mill, with giant grinding machines, gluing vats, driers, etc. I should have taken a picture. Earlier in the tour I passed the Kingsford charcoal factory in Kentucky.

The hills are getting gradually higher as I get into the Ozark plateau. But suddenly US 60 descends 400 feet to the Current river and the town of Van Buren.

The road is forested only half the time now.

On the east side of the river is the Watercress Spring recreation site. It's mostly used for access to the Current river. I had a hard time finding Watercress Spring. Most visitors I asked had never seen it.

Current River, the major spring-fed river of the Ozark plateau.

Wading seems to be encouraged at Watercress Spring. Water bubbles in from the sandy bottom.

Most of Van Buren is on the east side of the bridge. It's a tourist town whose main industry is float trips on the Current river. The season is over now so about half the businesses in town are closed.

My destination is across the bridge, the Big Spring Road motel. I arrived at 5:30 PM. That was nice after two days of riding until almost dark.

The bar/motel mostly caters to motorcyclists who drink heavily and want a room with a bar next door. The room was small, but not too smoky. Okay. $43. I did have some loud neighbors at 1 AM, a family with several kids.

I've progressed to a new region, the Ozarks. I didn't know much about the area until now. Now I know it has many clear spring fed rivers, similar to the central Texas Hill Country. I'm very near the biggest spring fed river in the Ozarks, the Current river.

I got a brochure for Ozark National Scenic Waterways, a national park. I learned that the main attraction in the area, Big Spring, is 4 miles up the side road I'm on. Big Spring is by far the biggest spring in the Ozarks.

Today had decent weather. High of 75F, much warmer than yesterday. It's October, so I can't take warm weather for granted. Traffic was very light except for the last 12 miles on US 60.

Distance: 64.2 mi. (103 km)
Climbing: 3033 ft. (919 m)
Average Speed: 9.7 mph (15.5 km/h)

Today's ride: 64 miles (103 km)
Total: 1,401 miles (2,255 km)

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