Sao Pedro de Moel: Pine trees and cycle tracks

October 2, 2013

Last night we were worried about a couple of things. The weather of course as we really wanted to get under way and just what it would be like riding on the N109 which seemed to be the only practical road to ride on once we got over the massive bridge. I had thought I had heard rain in the night but all I had been listening to was the sound of the waves pounding on the beach. The day was overcast with the promise of some rain in the afternoon, seemed ideal. The bikes were loaded and off we went. The first obstacle was the bridge. That was OK as there is a walking/cycling lane at the side so it was perfectly safe. I was not very popular as I refused to ride, looking down from that high gave me the creeps. Once onto the N109 even though it was suddenly being called the IC1 and there were lots of big trucks many of them logging it was perfectly safe as there was a very wide hard shoulder and we could make good progress. After about 25km we came to a small town with a café decked out in Wild West Style. It was here or at the next place we were to turn to the coast and hopefully meet the famed cycle path that goes for about 70 or more kilometers along the coast. We chose Guia which was probably a mistake but not vital. There was a brand new road cutting through the pine forest and beside it a perfectly protected new cycle track with a wonderful smooth surface. It was a speedy ride and it was particularly interesting to see that the pine trees were being tapped for turpentine. The process is to cut through the bark into what I presume is the Zylem layer and hang a can (or later we saw special plastic bags) to catch the sap which is used to produce turpentine. It cannot be particularly good for the trees some of which had as many as 4 taps. But all good things come to an end and we were back on a road of similar standard to the one we had been on on Monday. It was a bumpy ride but only lasted for around 5km and suddenly we were at another new road at right angles to it, and it had a red cycle path beside it. We had no idea where we were but knew we needed the cycle path. Off we went, we passed a little lake and eventually came to a named place we could find on the map. Further on there was a detour, it said the road was blocked in 2km, surely we could get bikes through. Unfortunately not without a boat.

By this time our stomachs were telling us we need to eat. I must explain eating is for us one of the major problems in Portugal. To start with breakfast. If you are staying in a hotel that provides it all is fine if not… Bars seem to open late and all you can seem to get is a coffee and a piece of some sort of rather dry cake or else one of their delicious little custard tarts. Then comes lunch, the snack bars again seem usually to have a very limited selection usually sweet (I am sure that if I had more (some) language things would be more straight forward). But I find dinner the most difficult and it is really about portion size. First you are brought bread, olives, pate and cheesey spreads that you have not ordered. Then comes your main course. It does not come on a plate but on a huge platter for you to dish onto your plate – beautifully cooked but far, far too big. Now I am not a small eater and have been excercising all day but I have rarely eaten even half of what I am given eg last night Ken and I had both ordered sardines. What we got were 6 fish about 9inches long each on a serving plate, a dish of potatoes which could have served a large family and a salad. Two of the fish would have made a good meal. It seems that the restauranters take great pride in serving you too much. Back to today at lunch time we came to Casa Anita and in we went. After some confusion in the bar where to man thought we wanted a glass of milk we were ushered into to dinning room. It was as though aliens had entered, not helped by the fact that the flashing red light on my helmet was still going. The room was full of workmen who had come in for their lunch, there was a moments silence but the waitress was a woman of great ingenuity. She first brought over bread, olives, pate etc which we declined. Then she took me out into the kitchen where there were huge pots of steaming food. I selected some and used the word for small in ever language I knew it in. What arrived was a large but manageable plate of the most delicious steak and kidney, a couple of potatoes each and a lovely fresh salad and of course a bottle of wine. We only had 2 small glasses each but it is not a good idea when you are riding. Total cost for the meal 14E

Back on to the cycle path and we have found a hotel at Sao Pedro de Moel high above the cliffs with the Atlantic Ocean beating on the rocks below.