August 17, 2013
Redon to Guenroute: A very short day
Today was rather a different day. For us it was a late start and it was well after 9am when we got going properly. We visited Decathalon again (twice) and are now guardedly optimistic that the problem with Ken’s bike computer is now fixed. Once more we started off along the canal. The path now had deteriorated from the super highway we have been travelling and was much bumpier but still perfectly OK. For most of the time on these Voie Verts we have been travelling between huge old chestnuts and cherry trees with the path beneath our wheels stained by the fruit of cherries that must have fallen a week or so ago and littered with the catkins of chestnuts. Yesterday there were enormous oaks which must have been planted at the time the canal was built and often there was the satisfying crunch of acorns under our wheels. Today the trees were much smaller, the chestnuts and cherries had completely disappeared but there were still oaks but now much smaller. There was much less activity on the water and once again we did not see big boats travelling with purpose although there were several places where there were considerable numbers of them with their owners fishing and getting on with the other important tasks of holiday making.
The nature of the country had changed considerably and it was now flat and marshy without all the small villages and lock houses that we had been enjoying so much. In fact we have come all the way to Guenrouet without as much as lock, that is over 20km, goodness knows how this country drains itself. Guenrouet was our first chance for a coffee. Today is Saturday, the Saturday at the end of the week containing Ascension Day and according to the TV it seems to signal the end of the holiday period , it appears there is traffic chaos everywhere but not for us on the quiet of the Nantes Brest Canal. What was significant for us was the accommodation problem. Last night I had searched fruitlessly on the internet for somewhere to stay tonight and then started phoning around but the answer was always the same – complet. Sitting drinking our very expensive coffee on the bridge into Guenrouet what should I spot across the bridge was an Information de Tourisme. It was really far too early to stop yet but I would just investigate. Over I went and yes there were 2 spaces left in the Gite d’Etape next to (or rather on top of) the Tourist information and next to the canal. A Gite d’Etape is rather like a tramping hut is in NZ. This one has a largish room with sink and stove, a table and chairs, no window and a shelf with 6 mattresses on it. We have claimed two of them. The weather forcast is not that great and it is getting windy so I thought that this would be preferable to blowing away in a tent. I don’t think Ken was quite as sure but here we are. We have as yet to meet our fellow travelers.
Guenroute is a holiday centre with a big camping ground, mooring for boats, swimming pool, two restaurants and up the hill a little village with an ancient church and all the services we need, the éclairs in the Boulangerie are delicious.
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Today's ride: 27 km (17 miles)
Total: 1,116 km (693 miles)
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