September 19, 2013
A Rest Day in Santiago
Some strange things can happen when you have little or no language. We speak and understand very little (if I am honest no) functional Spanish. Yesterday after we had done our important ‘pilgrim’ things we decided a little clothes washing was in order – we are getting a bit grubby. We asked the lady at reception where we could do this and she showed us a place that would do your washing for you. I said wasn’t there a self service launderette so she pointed us to a mega shopping mall in the opposite direction. Off we set and eventually found it. It was 3 or 4 times the size of Sylvia Park and seemed to be on steroids – we couldn’t see any maps we could understand but there was a security man. Indicating what we wanted he personally escorted us up and down and around about then triumphantly showed us an elevator to the basement. Gracias, gracias and down we descended but we could find nothing even vaguely possible then a kind young Spaniard saw us and through the mime we went again. Obviously no problem he led us to the toilets pointing out the men’s and the women’s. Don’t know what we had been miming we need to be careful. Onto a new track vigorous spinning motions. The light shone on his face and off we went again this time to arrive at a car wash! We now pulled out some of the disgustingly dirty clothes and showed him. Light dawned again and up the escalators we went and he pointed out a place called Presto. Gracias, gracias and much shaking of hands. Over we went and attempted to get into the machines to be stopped by the very agitated attendant – Presto was a high end dry cleaner. After she had regained her composure she directed us to the Information Centre across from her. The young woman here luckily had a little English and we were getting good a miming so she firmly told us non ,non ,non. She and Ken then had a rather strange and vigourous exchange. After all the hotel receptionist had told us there was a launderette at this mega centre. She told us it was not a hotel it was a shopping. (Did she think we wanted a room?). Defeated we then only had to find our way out of the place (not easy)and decide what next. By this stage my back was very sore and walking was becoming something of a problem and the other place was the same distance on the other side of town but we were on a mission. Ken set off at the speed of light and I limped back to the sanctuary of the hotel. The good news is that for 10E at 4pm this afternoon we can pick up our washing, we are slightly nervous as what will have happened to it in the meantime .
Today the wheels didn’t turn, the first time since we left London. We had a very relaxing day. First a really lovely buffet breakfast at the hotel. There were a lot of maps and various other oddments that we no longer needed so a mail home was in order. This was not relaxing as we got into confused language problems – postage certainly is expensive. When we walked this around 8 years ago Ken bought a set of bellows which we have used ever since to keep the fire that burns the grape prunings going. This year it developed a hole so we saw the same hardware shop and in we went and have an identical replacement. A coffee and it was time for the Pilgrim Mass. A huge congregation, over a thousand and even though we were three quarters of an hour early we were very lucky to have seats, though not together. The whole service is very moving. The music was beautiful with the soprano voice of one of the nuns and the organ which is typical of Portugese and Spanish organs with some of the pipes horizontal and trumpet shaped. The acoustics in this massive stone building are of course outstanding. We were lucky as today they swung the giant incense burner Bontafumeiro which was originally used to fumigate the sweaty and possibly disease ridden pilgrims. It requires half a dozen assistants and is certainly a unique experience.
At 4pm we set off again for the laundry and what a lovely surprise to get a bundle of perfectly laundered and folded clothes carefully wrapped in plastic
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