Nérac to Barbotan Les Thermes

September 30, 2023

adding some uphill

Saturday was market day in Nérac! We left our bags and bikes at the hotel and went out in the morning to enjoy the market. But first, we took the opportunity to walk down to the River Baïse. From the river`s edge we could see the other side of Nérac known as Petit Nérac. Crossing the bridge to the other side we walked up the main street lined with wonderful old half wooden houses. Some of the facades were twisting and sagging under their weight and others had been beautifully restored. They all have very interesting and unique designs showing their obvious long history.

Pont-Vieux de Nérac from the 16th century.

Looking up stream on the Baise River is a second bridge crossing.

Nice, half wooden houses line the main street in Petit Nérac. It is interesting how the second floors seem to be cantilevered over the first.

Looking down the main street of Petit Nérac.

Very decorative with bricks layered between the X`s.

Returning back across the one lane, Roman style bridge, we made our way through the busy market to buy fruit, cheese, meat and bread for our lunch. Being slightly hungry we bought way too much stuff as it all looked so good! At the top of the market was crepe kiosk where we both ordered a freshly made egg and ham crepe. Carefully taking bites of the piping hot slightly gooey rolled up crepes, we walked back to our hotel and finished the last bits sitting on chairs in the front of Hotel George IV.

The market in Nérac. We bought some cheese from the stand on the left.

The prunes that Agen is famous for. Thanks Dave, they really are delicious!

Fresh tomatoes and Basil - just what is required for the creation of a wonderful sauce or basil pesto. A flat of romas were ten euros.

There were a number of stalls cooking up various delights. I think these were chanterelle mushrooms.

A colourful display selling Caribbean food.

Feeling very full, it was now 10:30 and time to gather our things and hit the road. Today`s ride was not long but it did have a number of hilly sections including a hill right off the bat leaving Nérac. Again the route planner would like to take credit for progressively building up our stamina by easing into more physical rides. Today`s ride was a great transition from the canal rides to the hilly country side. We both know that a mountain, albeit a small one, is coming.

Like clockwork at the 20 kilometre mark we arrived at the village of Poudenas. On the right side of the road there was an oddly designed building with a cafe sign and chairs on the covered veranda. There were no other people in sight as we approached the disheveled looking restaurant (Cafe Galerie pizzeria) and were greeted by a man in an apron. We enquired about having some coffee. ¨No problem¨ was the reply and we took a seat at a table in the shade provided by the overhang of the roof. The proprietor returned with our coffee order and a meowing cat brushing against his legs, obviously looking for lunch as well. He explained in quite excellent English that it was the village cat and was left behind by someone who was no longer living there. We started to drink our coffee and Jean-Claude and the cat walked away.

Jean-Claude Primiceri`s pizza restaurant in Poudenas. Drop in if you are passing by.

We were finishing up our coffees when Jean-Claude returned, with the cat looking satisfied. He asked us where we were from. From that question we began an almost an hour long conversation with Jean-Claude telling us about things we should try to see on our route and his time in the USA including that as a team rider in the 1996 Atlanta Olympics. He really was a fascinating man and so willing to share his knowledge of Southern France. After filling our water bottles with ice cold water from the bar he walked with us across the street and looked at our bikes before saying au revoir. It was just one of those completely unexpected chance meet ups that leave you feeling so lucky to have experienced.

As a sidebar bar= twice today we were stopped at the side of a road and in both cases people stopped their cars and asked us if we needed help. The caring and kindness has been quite amazing.

Leaving Poudenas, we rejoined highway D144 and reached an intersection with signs that indicated the direction that would take us back to the Eurovelo 3 route. But after hearing from Jean Claude that this route contained gravel sections, we elected to stay on the highway as there were almost no cars at all. We passed through the town of SOS and then a long stretch before reaching the next town of Gabarret. The day was getting very warm as we looked for some shade in Gabarret to enjoy our treats from the market in Nérac. We set up our picnic sitting on the steps of the local church and quietly ate our lunch in the company of a ginger cat looking for scraps. We left the steps of the church feeling full and ready to tackle the last of the rolling hills to Barbotan.

Nice highway riding with very little vehicle traffic.

When we told the cafe owner in Poudenas that we were going to Barbotan he just sort of shook his head and said, ¨it is a spa, you only go there if you have to¨. With that in mind we were not expecting much beyond a room in one of their many hotels. Reaching the town we took a short ride up the main street, past the coffee shops, bars and restaurants thinking it looked a bit more Swiss than French but certainly without a historic character feel. There was nothing really wrong with the place but tourist season was over and it was now the quiet season. Our hotel was not far away and we were most welcomed by our host who explained every detail for today`s stay.

Happy with our surroundings, we spent the remainder of the afternoon resting and enjoyed the fixed menu dinner provided by the hotel. Soup, chicken brochette and vegetables with a dessert and glass of wine for 20 euros. All good.

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Today's ride: 47 km (29 miles)
Total: 226 km (140 miles)

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