one of the oldest, still inhabited, cities in the world
After breakfast, we left our BnB to meet up with a local guide that we had arranged to show us around the oldest area in Matera. We met with Gaetano, our guide, and began the two hour history filled tour. Gaetano was born near Matera and was very knowledgeable and an interesting and entertaining guide. We were joined by seven other people to make up our small group.
The history of Matera dates back thousands of years, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Archaeological evidence suggests that humans started settling in the area as early as the Paleolithic era, over 12 000 years ago. One of the defining features of Matera is its unique cave dwellings, called Sassi or stone in Italian. These dwellings were carved into the soft sandstone and served as homes for the local population for centuries. The Sassi were a result of Matera’s strategic location, providing natural protection and defense.
Our tour focused on the part of the city known as the Sasso Caveoso, which is shaped like a amphitheatre directly above the 150 metre deep ravine. The other sassi, Sasso Barisano, backs directly onto it. Together they form the ancient urban core of Matera, declared a cultural landscape by UNESCO in 1993.
What really makes this area unique is that its physical and political isolation from Italy allowed it to develop in its own, some may call it backward, way. In the 1950s, the people were still living in poor and unsanitary conditions in caves without running water, plumbing or electricity. Disease was common and infant mortality was high. The Italian government of the day was ashamed of Matera and they forced the inhabitants to relocate to more modern, purpose built apartments about 3 km away. The last holdouts had left the sassi by 1971. As a result, the area remained relatively vacant for decades. Much of the area has now been repaired and cleaned up. The buildings are being repurposed into hotels, shops and homes but in a way that the area appears similar as it did hundreds of years ago. We spent a morning being fascinated as we walked around it.
Heading down many steps into the Sasso Barisano area. Walking requires your full attention with each step.
Looking at Monterrone in the distance. It is a hill that divides the two Sassi areas in Matera. The Sasso Barisano in the foreground is largely formed by traditional houses
If you look closely there is a suspension bridge spanning the bottom of the ravine and a steep climb up to the top. Some caves can be seen to the top right.
Sasso Barisano. It started with caves and then manmade structures were made in front to create more space. Afterwards, buildings were also built on top of the roofs to create new houses.
This is how the original cave area looked when people lived there - up until 1971. The ground is very uneven and you can see the original drainage and cisterns used to gather and store water.
Our guide Gaetano inside a reclaimed cave showing us what day to day activity was like. The fireplace was a recent addition as the animals that shared the small cave shelters created the necessary warmth for the inhabitants. You can guess what the vessel on the floor was used for!
The inhabitants also created a simple but ingenious reservoir system carved out of the stone, that collected and stored rainwater. It is believed that this system was fundamental for the survival of the population of Matera from prehistoric times to the present day. In 1993, the collection of water in Matera was recognized by UNESCO.
After our tour, we walked to the Matera Central train station to get information on the train service out of Matera. Our time is running short and we need to return to Rome for our flight home in three days. The only train service from here is operated by Appulo Lucane (FAL ) and it connects Matera to Bari. However tomorrow, Sunday, the train is substituted with a bus service. We therefore bought two tickets for the bus and will go to Bari to catch the train to Rome.
Scott AndersonThanks for such a detailed write-up! Such an astonishing place. It makes me wish we’d taken a guided tour when we were there ourselves. Reply to this comment 6 days ago
