Wed 23th Nov: Rio ? to Rio Baker Mirador (up a steep hill after the turning for Villa Tortel)

November 23, 2016

A wide braid on Rio Baker, the main melt-water river from the "Hielo del Sur Norte" ice-cap.

Veiw from my campsite, mirador baker, up a steep winding hill from a right-turn for a place called, Villa Tortel.

This morning my bodyclock has the right idea, namely not to wake me up until 7.15, when I feel completely rested. Not much fatigue the day before, it having been easier going than the day before that with all the big hills. Or perhaps it was this campsite which is much more tranquil than the night before, with the soothing roll of the river and having the tent in among trees. Hard to say. But I'm having a later start, with a walk up to a stream by the road to refill my water bottles with the nicest water I've tasted in a long time. Which'll make even better tea, than usual.

I take the tent down shortly before nine and then push the loaded up bike back up to the road not long after. The road on is a smooth consolidated gravel, like a good farm track, through groves of alerces trees that keep it in shade and cool. And it would remain much the same for the duration of the day, with only one short climb to spoil the apple cart. The way following a narrow river valley, then out alongside the biggest river in the region, Rio Baker.

Come four o'clock the availability of good campsites is limited to a stony streambank. Not until I reach a bridge called Puerta Vagabond, whereupon a road turns off on the right for Villa Tortel, do I come to another possible campsite, but it would be a campsite of last resort, as the riverbank is near enough all stony without trees for cover.

At the bridge a Toyota Hi-Lux slows and comes to a halt, just as I return up the embankment to the bike. The driver leans out the window and shouts "Do you need help?" "No. Everything is find, but thanks" I fire back. I go on until level with him. He offers me a pear, which I greedily accept. The first fruit in a week.

He tells me his name is Jacob and he's from Denmark. About forty and has been on the road all the way from New York. We talk about the route of coarse, and a not much used pass into Argentina, connecting Villa O'Higgin to Route 40, called Paso Mayor.

Once Jacob drivers on I continue my quest for a good campsite. The road pass the Villa Tortel turning immediately climbs, a steep winding serious of switchbacks. So I've run out of riverside options. Then a few bends up, I come to a wide layby used as a stop where drivers get out and look at the view back on the Rio Baker and take photos. Down a bank on the inside it is level and grassy, a bit stony but it'll have to do. I pitch the tent and beautify the place as best I can by building a picnic table out of large stones.

This evening as I write, the weather looks to be changing. There was a breeze this afternoon and cloud moving in from the west. It has now gone quarter to ten and is still daylight. One of the joys of cycling in Southern Patagonia: there's no shortage of day.

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