Wed 14th Sep: Somewhere on the way to Hualfin, to Belen

September 14, 2016

A more peaceful night. Yes, mainly because the wind settled, but it was cold.

There's a level of cold I can tolerate in my sleeping-bag. I knew if I open up and get out it'd be freezing. There was a slight chill where I am, nevertheless I'm comfortable, snug in the sleeping-bag while outside is freezing cold.

This morning not only do I put on fleece top, but down-jacket and warm leggings. Once I've taken down the tent and packed all on the bike, I set off riding with my rain-windproof jacket over that, wearing woollly hat and winter-gloves. It takes an hour riding until I begin warming up, and can shed some clothes.

There has been a bit of a headwind until the long dead straight road reaches a spur of hills I'd been headed toward for so long, and swings left, where I get a feeling of having made progress. Then after a short gradual climb the road drops into a kind of trough, where a newer smoother road begins, and there's no longer any wind.

The distance to Haulfin is covered fast. I reach the village about half twelve, find a comidor (simple restaurant). I'm the only diner. The man that owns and runs the place has a teenage son who is retarded, Down Sindrome I think. I cannot make out what he is trying to tell me as he stutters and laughs by my table. Then his father calls him and tells him to remain behind the counter.

Once I've had lunch I fill up on water at the tourist information office, and rest a while sat on a bench in a small trianglar park opposite.

The afternoon is through a much changed desert landscape than this time yesterday. Dollops of rock in rising columns, cream, brown and orange. There's no wind and it's warm.

I reach a long descent through a river gorge as I approach Belem, where pushing the bike off the road along a track through riverside woodland a few kilometres short of town, I find a level clearing to pitch the tent.

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