November 8, 2016
Tue 8th Nov: Villa Ortega to Coyhaique
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Shortly after nine with the sun shining on me, l go further. The riverbank back there was the only place I could've camped, as not far on-I'm back to fenced in pasture all along on either side. So it was fortunate I come to that small interlude in non private property yesterday afternoon. Though there remains lots of beech wood beyond the pasture land, up on the hillsides, just not accessible.
The forest clearing for pasture here took place around 1930, up to 1970. Sanctioned by the Chilean government in order to fill in blank space on the map. The main tool was to set fires: the evidents of forest-burning remains to be seen today in pasture dotted with standing tree-trunks. The settlers were predominately Chilean farm workers returning home from sheep estancias in Argentina after a post World War 1 slump in the econimics of sheep farming, leading up to the invention of synthetic fibres that most clothing is made of today and ultimate collapse of the wool price rendered them unemployed. The main or about only access into the forest was across the border from Argentina, perhaps the reason for the road from Alto Rio Senguer I've been on since Sunday.
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The scars of forest fires remain, such as hillsides, previously beech wood-now naked with a consistent speckling of dead wood, stumps and erect bare tree trucks. All of the houses are wooden, many abandoned. Despite all this destruction, however, the countryside here looks stunning, yellow speckled dandelions pasture reaching dark woodland and snow streaked mountains beyond.
I arrive in Coyhaique shortly after half one and ride directly to Mama Gauchita pizza cafe; which, as well as serving good home made food, do microbrew beer. Where I decide to treat myself after ten days on the road since leaving Trevelin. Having taken a seat, straight-away I see Tim and Maria, the owners of Salamanca hostel at another table with a surprise new baby. So I'm already checked into the hostel for a break of a few days here.
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