With the drama over for the day: the drama of having thought I'd lost my journal for the whole trip, in which I was thinking what will I do now. All my trip's writing is lost: a lot of time and effort. It turned up. I'd only mislaid it. Anyway, today I was for catching up on updating the online journal. I spend the morning uploading pictures as the Wi-Fi would be slower in the afternoon.

The afternoon is spent heavily walking around town, heavy due to the fatigue in the legs. I find for some reason all the food shops are shut during the afternoon, or perhaps it's a holiday. But I find an open bakery and buy empanadas, 20 pesos each. I call in at the oldest cafe in town, Los Patagonicos: not to eat, as the prices are out of my league at 80 pesos for a toasted cheese sandwich, and 70 for a cuppucinno. But to look at the collection of old black and white photos on the walls of the pioneer climbers from Switzerland and Italy that came in the 1950s, to try and be the first to climb Fitzroy, a few of which fell to their deaths in the attempt. There is a picture of them having arrived at Rio Gallegos on an Argentine military plane. Another of them loading boxes of provisions on the back of a truck. Another of the same truck on a raft crossing the Santa Cruz river. Yet another with the boxes loaded onto a wagon pulled by oxen across open pampa. The road perhaps didn't exist then.

Back in the campsite common room when I return, Lucile is busy on her phone, updating Facebook. While her boyfriend is away out to clean both their bikes. I ask her doesn't she clean her own bike. "Oh no. I won't touch the bike" she replies.

When you think of it, it's striking how easy travel is nowadays in comparison to the arduous journey those pioneer climbers made in the 1950s, even just to get here. Today the town dubbed National Capital of Trekking, provides a comfortable relaxed stop. It's become a fairytale land. The town it's self that was only founded in 1985.