Celebrating the New Year in Córdoba

December 29, 2018 to January 1, 2019

My South American adventure started with a few days in Argentina visiting my friend Carla and her family in Córdoba. I worked in Carla's lab during my sabbatical in Paris a few years ago, and got to know her parents while we all were in Paris in the fall of 2017. Carla was in Argentina for the holidays, so I invited myself there to celebrate the New Year.

I arrived in Buenos Aires and made it through customs without incident, but soon encountered a few bumps in the road. One was that I could not activate the international data plan for my phone. I had a 4 hour layover until my flight to Córdoba and spent the entire time on the international help line with Verizon, all to no avail. So, it was on to Córdoba where I was met with big hugs and smiles from Carla and her parents Hassan and Amanda. They took me to pick up the key to my Airbnb, which was located not far from their house. The day was hot, over 100°F, and the west-facing 7th floor Airbnb apartment was quite toasty. Carla called the host and informed us that we needed to turn on the electricity for the AC, hot water, fridge and WiFi - only to discover that the WiFi had been disconnected because the bill had not been paid! Another call to the host elicited promises to pay the bill and warnings that it might be another 24 hr before the WiFi was active. Laughing, Carla reminded me that I was no longer in the "first world". I bid them farewell, promising to meet in a few hours after my shower and and nap. Later that evening, we all decided it was best for me to cancel the Airbnb and check into the nearby Sheraton - which had plenty of AC and a good WiFi connection. It's hard to believe how easily one becomes dependent on instant connectivity - a far cry from just few years ago when I thought nothing of traveling abroad with a maybe a guide book and perhaps a phone card.

All of Carla's family - including her parents, sister, brother-in-law and nephew - welcomed me to Córdoba with an authentic Argentinian barbecue. The Argentine grill, or asado, has a long tradition wherein grilling is a recognized art form. Numerous cuts of meat are grilled and served in a specific order - our feast included, in order, chorizo, blood sausage, sweetbread, intestine, pork ribs and beef ribs all accompanied by homemade french fries and tomato salad. I channeled my inner Anthony Bourdain and sampled each course, many for the first time. I was pleasantly surprised by the blood sausage, not so much with the crispy intestine (chinchulin). After each course, there was a round of applause for the master griller, with much toasting and singing to celebrate my visit, the season, and our magnificent meal. It was a very special evening and a wonderfully warm welcome by some very special folks.

The master griller Hassan tending the asada

Surrounded by family warmth and barbecue

Córdoba is Argentina's second largest city, located in the center of the country. I spent two days exploring the city with Carla and her mother Amanda, including museums, churches, bohemian barrios, historical plazas, and the National University of Córdoba. Many of the sites were closed due to the long New Year weekend; however, with the help of my trusted local guides I found a city that celebrated spiritual and intellectual life, while also reflecting the pain and consequences of dictatorships and political instability.

Church of the Capuchinos - built by Italian architect Augusto Ferrari during the 1920s. Carla's sister Laura was married here.

Symbol of the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo along the Paseo de las Artes in the Barrio Güemes. The Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo is an association of women whose children "disappeared" during the period of state terrorism and Argentina's Dirty War (1976-83). The white scarves were worn to symbolize the diapers of their lost children.

General Jose de San Martin, the liberator of Argentina, Chile and Peru. The statue in Plaza de San Martin faces west, the direction Jose de San Martin rode through the Andes during his successful fight to secure independence of South American countries from the Spanish Empire

Córdoba Cabildo - the colonial town hall located in Plaza de San Martin

Córdoba Cathedral, with outline of cathedral depicted in the white stones interspersed with the cobblestones of Plaza de San Martin

Interior of the Chapel of Saint Teresa, a part of the San Jose Monastery of the Discalced (Barefoot) Carmelites. During mass, the Carmelite nuns are seated behind the grated area in the right of the photo - they sing during mass, but at all other times are silent.

Pope Francis asks us to pray for him - a sign at the entrance to the Jesuit Church. The church is located in the Jesuit block, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that also contains the University of Córdoba, a secondary school, and residence buildings. All were built by the Jesuits in the 1660's as means to pursue their religious and educational ideals.

Carla in front of her alma mater - the University of Córdoba School of Exact, Physical and Natural Sciences

To celebrate the New Year, we had a traditional dinner at Carla's house. Afterward, we decamped to the garden where we welcomed the New Year with champagne and sweets, and a little dancing and singing. After lunch today, I bid a fond farewell to Carla and all of her family. Their warmth, kindness and joyous celebrations have given me an excellent start to 2019 and my upcoming adventures.

Hassan, Amanda and Carla welcoming the New Year with champagne and sweets

I leave tomorrow for Santiago where I will spend a few days with my college roommate before departing to Punta Arenas and two weeks of hiking in Southern Patagonia.

The biking begins mid-January, I promise!

Best wishes to all for a happy and healthy 2019.

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SUSAN GRIFFITHThis looks like so much fun. Thanks for sharing this with us. It is hard to think about this type of weather for New Year's!

Great pictures too.
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