Today started with a short walk to the Chilean border patrol, where our PDI visas were collected and our passports were stamped for exiting Chile. Then we were in a land twixt two countries - a private gravel road that was “maintained” by a private company. For the first 10 miles the ride was a bit bumpy but mostly level, running along the Rio Negro through an verdant forest with occasional waterfalls and flowing rivers.
Our Puella lodging near the Chile-Argentina border
We stopped for a rest and snacks at Chilean border station – one that didn’t provide immigration services – with the extinct volcano Monte Tronador visible in the distance. Ahead was a steep uphill climb into Argentina (5 mi up, 2 mi down, both average 10%, all gravel). I headed up the hill, hoping that the road would stay firm and the hills weren’t too steep. It was not long before my hopes were dashed. The road was essentially rocks and sand, making it extremely difficult to get enough traction. In the lowest gears, the rear tire spun out – making it necessary to power through the steeper sections in a bigger gear. When I was inevitably forced off the bike, it was necessary to push it along until I could find a place both level enough and firm enough to remount and carry on. After several rounds of cycling and walking, I'd made it about 1/2 way up. I could hear the laughter from those who had chosen to have their bike transported up the hill while they walked, bike-free up the hill. The group finally caught up to me and I cried uncle. Dennis, one of the walkers, and I took turns pushing my bike until the truck came by and relieved us of our burden. Although I was a bit spent by my efforts at cycling, it was a nice walk up the hill, getting to know more about some of the other members of the group. At the top of the hill we were welcomed into Argentina. I picked up my bike and picnic lunch and headed down – a winding road of sand and loose gravel. The going was a bit rough and dicey at times, but I managed to stay on the bike and actually found parts of it exhilarating.
Chilean border control station just down the hill from the Argentina border
At the bottom of the hill, we got our Argentina entry stamps and, while waiting for our next ferry, I ate my picnic lunch, read about Che Guevera’s motorcycle trip through South America, and spotted my first araucaria tree, more commonly known as a monkey puzzle tree. The ferry across Lago Frias to Puerto Alegre was another serene trip in this idyllic Lakes region of Patagonia. After docking, a 3km on gravel took us to our lakeside hotel in Puerto Blest. Hot and dusty from the road, I dumped my luggage in the room and went wading in the lake – and then couldn’t resist a dive into the cool water, spandex and all. Refreshed and renewed. Welcome to Argentina!
Made it down the hill to the shore of Lago Frias - safe and sound
