September 19, 1993
To Fidenza
This was a short, relaxing day across more level farmlands. We cut our distance short today to allow us to end this and the next day's rides at towns large enough to be assured of finding lodging. The 150k between Fidenza and the coast looks like rather mountainous, sparsely populated country.
Even though we started late and puttered along, we reached Fidenza about 2:30. Our only real stop on the way was in the village of Cortemaggiore, where we picnicked in the city park and milled through the public market. Along the way, we also were lucky to pass through a village shortly before church service, and enjoyed watching the townspeople congregating - arriving in about equal numbers by car, bike and foot.
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Fidenza is quite a pretty town. It has an impressive 13th century duomo, and a lovely cathedral which is close to our hotel and visible from our room. We spent a very lazy, pleasant afternoon and evening, wandering about town, sitting in the piazza, wathing the crowds. Everyone is out in the streets milling, bicycling, socializing. It is a very entertaining and enjoyable scene to witness. Among many other aspects, I never tire of seeing the large numbers of persons of all ages biking around - frequently paired up with children or friends, sometimes being towed along next to motorbikes. Both sides of the street were dense with parked bikes propped on the curb in front of the movie theater, which was showing Jurassic Park.
(Ed: in another surprising omission from the journal, there is no mention of one of my favorite memories from the entire tour, one I've described to friends countless times over the years. A boy was bicycling with his girlfriend sitting on the bike in front of him, facing him, talking animatedly to him and gesticulating with both hands. It's a wonder that he could see around her well enough to bike at all.)
Our only anxiety of the day - nothing except bars and gelaterias was open. We did our best at a bar, having a not very interesting microwaved pizza and a salami panini. The best part of the experience was watching the patrons at their card games. Two varieties, both foreign to me, were underway at very animated neighboring tables.
Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,167 km (725 miles)
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