September 9, 1993
To Auxonne
It poured steadily for much of the night. By morning it was still gloomy and overcast, but not raining at least. We were out and on the road by about 8:30, putting off breakfast until arriving at Flavigny - 15 km, a hill, a flat tire, and a mild rainstorm away. We enjoyed petit dejeuner at an auberge - it featured wonderful coffee and a beautifully grey and gold hued cat, George, who consented to jump into Rachael's lap.
In spite of coffee, we were feeling a bit gloomy as we set off again in the mist, envisioning another soaking with the nearest likely lodging in Dijon, perhaps 60 km to the southeast. Happily, the weather gradually but steadily improved, until by the time we left Dijon at about 4:30 it was beautiful and sunny.
The ride to Dijon was actually quite lovely in spite of the grey skies. For the first twenty or so miles it very gradually gained elevation as we followed first the Oceraine, and then, after crossing a ridge, the Oze. As everywhere throughout Burgundy, the countryside is green, pastoral, and accented by tile-roofed villages surrounding a colorful church or cathedral. We enjoyed fine views of the valleys as we ascended to leave them and change watersheds.
Dijon is the largest urban center of our trip so far. We didn't spend too much time here though - just long enough for a café crème; to raid a boulangerie, where Rachael picked up her second of three deserts for the day (I forgot to mention earlier we stopped also at a boulangerie in Plombieres-les-Dijon, five km before Dijon, where I got a thon (a tuna-filled pie), and Rachael a large, rich chocolate and merengue creation); to visit a bank and cash some travelers checks in exchange for swills francs (260 for $200) and Italian lire (275,000 for $200); and to circle its fabulous cathedral (ed: correct for a change, by lucky accident) with its colorfully tiled turrets and roofs and an obviously spectacular interior from the same period as the one in Vezelay - except that we couldn't see much of it since it is under major restoration.
The last 25 miles to Auxonne were a lovely and fast cruise downwind through a succession of small towns on a maze of minor roads. We had to ask for directions twice, but I was very impressed by our success in keeping on course. We ended the day quite envigorated and encouraged, a far cry from how we felt at its beginning.
We obtained accommodations a bit out of town from the Syndicat d'Initiative, and then scavenged dinner ingredients from several locations before heading to our room. Over a picnic on the floor of our room we played a game of cribbage, counting in Italian in preparation for the days ahead. Our feast: grapes, peaches, two loaves of viennoise bread, a wheel of cheese, and Rachael's third dessert of the day - a large piece of chocolate cake.
Today's ride: 120 km (75 miles)
Total: 370 km (230 miles)
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