to Swimming Hole Camp: around the lake and onto the dirt

August 8, 2016

“Hope from a downhill gives way to despair that yet another 12% hill is around the corner” Rachel says to Jo at the top of yet another hill.

Most people at the orchard leave late in the evening, as this must have been a Sunday beach destination for them. The outhouse way in a corner of the compound is a bit “rough”, but we cannot complain having had such a nice campsite for free. Pushing back to the road in the morning Patrick discovers a flat front tire, another one of those little metal wires from a disintegrated truck tire. A quick change and we are back in business.

The first 20km along the lake are tough, lots of ups and a few downs, then a long downhill to farm fields along the lake shore. There are very nice views of colorful hills on the other side of the lake. We cross the Naryn River and tackle one more climb to Torkent. There we stock up on food for the next four or five days. Our plan is to take a “shortcut” road via Tolkun instead of following the much longer M41. Both roads do some serious climbing after leaving the lake, from about 1000 meters up to over 3000 meters. The road we choose does it in a stair step manner, but it is unpaved which will make it tougher, we will probably have to walk some sections.

The French that camped with us last night will keep going on M41 because they have to get to Bishkek sooner. Susie decides to join them because she has a flight home sooner than we can guarantee to get there via the “shortcut”. Our reward will be in the scenery, we are tired of listening to traffic all day and look forward to seeing more green covered valleys, livestock and yurts.

While we rest and eat ice-cream at the store a nice German cyclist shows up, he just came down the road we plan to take. We get some good information on camp spots and are told about the tough and easy parts. We hear the best story of the year from him: He was camped about 45km away from here and some kind of furry animal the size of a raccoon or badger attacked him during the night. First it got into it biting plastic bottles, then his tent. The German defended himself, hitting the animal on the head with one of his bike shoes. The cleat must have left a mark and he knocked the animal out. Then he grabbed it by the neck and back and tossed it into the river. “The bastard could swim!” exclaims are new friend. Funny story, but also a warning. We have had a couple of dogs chasing us today, Jo had one bite his rear pannier. So starting tomorrow we carry a stick again.

It is hot again, but not as hot as the last couple of days. With panniers full of food, three cans of beer and a small bottle of Kyrgyzstan whiskey, we set of on the dirt. The first 10km are nice and gradual along the river but just when we start to think that this is going to be easy there is a brutal steep climb.

At about 16kms,asphalt briefly returns and a village where we have one more ice-cream and a last cold drink. Local guys give us some kumiz, the fermented mare’s milk that the Kyryz love. It is terrible but Jo likes it…..

Right on the 20km from the turnoff at Torkent, just like the German said, is a nice camp spot. The road dips down to cross the river and there is a large flatish area with plenty of spots to camp. There even is a swimming hole, a divot left by some construction that has filled up with water where the local kids are swimming. Water temperature is perfect! There is a cold river for drinking water. The only thing missing during the middle of the day would be shade, but it is just after five when we arrive and the shadows are already lengthening in the valley.

After that a beer that has been chilling in the river for a while and pasta with salami, peppers and corn for dinner. Snicker bar for dessert and we might even throw in a swig of whiskey!

Leaving our campsite at Tortogul Lake. The green Kyrgyzstan hills in morning light.

Green Kyrgyzstan hills around Tortugul Lake.

All across Tajikistan we saw "Valid Hype" graffiti on road signs and even the bathroom doors at the hostel in Khorog. The person is a cyclist, but his identity is All across Tajikistan we saw "Valid Hype" graffiti on the road signs and even the bathroom doors at the hostel in Khorog. the person is a cyclist, but his identity is unknown. Super Cycling Man spread the rumor it might be us, but here is a sign that disproves that; as Jo is our witness there is no way we could have tagged this one.

Left the asphalt and headed up our "short cut" road.

Pretty nice cycling with hardly any traffic.

Three sweaty cyclists enjoying icecream, and sampling the "kumis" in a little shop. Last shop until Toluk actually.

The swimming hole where we decide to camp. Local kids are curious.

Local kids at the swimming hole campsite.

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 1,595 km (990 miles)

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