to Muzkol River camp: over the highest pass on the Pamir Hwy.

July 24, 2016

As the sunlight creeps across the valley and warms our hands, we pack-up our gear, have breakfast of cereal and instant coffee and push back to the road. Jo and the Swiss girls follow soon. We stop for a look around the caravanserai, this too would be a good spot to camp. The road starts with rolling hills and briefly follows the stream and a flat section also good for camping.

We have about 25 kilometers of asphalt left to the foot of the pass. We all stop for photos at the sign for the pass before starting the 4km climb. The asphalt ends and a steep gravel road climbs the last 400 meters to the top of Akbaital Pass at 4655 meters the highest on the Pamir Highway. The colorful rocks are beautiful, add to that a herd of foraging yaks and we have plenty to look at as we push our bikes the last four kilometers to the summit. It is hard work, the lack of oxygen does not help.

At the top we all re-unite and all descend on a washboard road to the Muzkol River valley. Where the road crosses the river, we find another beautiful camp spot a ways off the road, next to the river. Later that evening Jonathan a doctor from Berlin joins us, he has ridden in one day from Murghab on a Brompton foldable bike. In the afternoon the river level rises at least a foot and the water turns from crystal clear to a grey soup of glacial silt. Filtering water is still possible, but the filter needs to be cleaned frequently. It is nice camping with a group of people, but as soon as the sun drops behind the mountains the temperature drops quickly and the party ends with everyone retreating to their tents and sleeping bags.

We watch the moon roll down the hillside.....

All the way down until it gets stuck between the two mountains.

The signs for Akbaital Pass are not placed at the summit. For some reason we cannot figure out there is a sign on each side where the road starts to climb seriously.

Colorful rocks and cyclists on the way up Akbaital Pass.

Spot the cyclist. This is Jo grinding his way up.

Our team at the summit of Akbaital Pass. No sign here.

Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 854 km (530 miles)

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